K&N Air filter install

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Frank-RR

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Hi Guys, I have the above filter to replace to my "M", I am going to (well maybe) attempt myself, I looked at a couple of vids, but, earlier models, no sure if the set up is still exactly the same, but didnt, show a reassemble, so no torque settings if required, questions:

the removable cover on the tank cover, is there a torque for the "bolts"

is it necessary to remove the ECU

is there anything else that maybe required to be removed.

cheers
 
I had mine fitted when I took it to the dyno. First time I've owned a bmw so can't compare to previous models, looked simple enough when airbox was off took seconds to swop
 
Guys, please bear in mind, I'd recommend disconnecting the battery before disconnecting the ECU. One of the ECU connectors is fine disconnecting with the battery connected but the other isn't. You can move the ecu out of the way with the one that's ok disconnected but I've seen people forget to turn the ignition off and then it's fried ECU with either connector. Disconnecting major things like ECU's isn't worth the risk.... disconnect the battery. Plus the central aisle of LIDL are doing fire extinguishers for less than ?12 if you prefer. :upset: IMHO J
 
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I thought it was going to be a rant about the pointlessness of aftermarket airfilters to be honest, so that was refreshing ;) :D

The bike makes 206Hp with the stock filter, it's not an issue....
 
I remember a friend of mine and a fellow racer was racing at the TT. He couldn?t be bothered to take the seat off to charge the battery (std at the time no alternator) So he ran an extra feed off the positive battery which he tapped out of the way of the frame. So when he wanted to charge the battery he connected the positive of the charger to his positive ?extension? and the negative to the footrest. I gave him a slap...
Never underestimate the stupidity of the human race. J
 
Hi Guys, I have the above filter to replace to my "M", I am going to (well maybe) attempt myself, I looked at a couple of vids, but, earlier models, no sure if the set up is still exactly the same, but didnt, show a reassemble, so no torque settings if required, questions:

the removable cover on the tank cover, is there a torque for the "bolts"

is it necessary to remove the ECU

is there anything else that maybe required to be removed.

cheers

I've just bought a Sprint Filter for mine. I have good results with my last one, i don't think it added any performance but throttle response was noticeably improved. Anyway I'd imagine it is similar to the Gen 3 as the others have said, you lift up the ECU but do not disconnect and slide out the air scoop up and out the way. You can then unclip the airbox and pop the filter out. I will stick the filter in later today and update you with some images.
 
Thanks Gav, so i got as far as taking out the most obvious top 5 bolts, BUT, the over appears to be ?stuck? it didnt move, i am always afraid that i snap(done it before on other bikes) the hidden plastic clips that always appear to be so fragile and snap before you know it.
 
Well it wasn?t as straight forward as I first thought. I am not sure how far you got but the cover has 3 bolts holding it on. You then lift the cover up (by the fuel cap) which is held by Velcro! Then two further clips hold it place near the single bolt at the front. Gentle tug and the cover will pop off.

Next is the ECU, now I think you can do this without lifting the fuel tank (which I did) sounds worse than it is. Take the ECU bolt out. And to the right you?ll see two wires that go along the frame up to the controls. There?s a zip tie. Cut it off.

Now the ECU should slide forward, there are two spring metal tabs on the fuel tank pressing down on the ECU.

Try slide and pull the ECU forward it maybe tight but should come out. Then unclip the temp sensor that sits on the right of airbox. (Small sensor on the right of the ecu.)

That should give you enough room to lift the ECU to the left. Under it you will see a cover for the air filter. Two clips, pop those, slide the cover off and then pull the filter up and out. You maybe have to wriggle it a bit and move the ecu around to give you room. But it does come out without unclipping the ECU.

Now if the ECU does not slide out then you need to lift the tank slightly. Remove the seat, undo the bolts for the side panels, there?s two more under the seat. The two small side panels slide forward slightly and then unclip (towards the front of the bike). It?s actually pretty easy to see how they come off once you look at them closely) Then there are two M10 nuts, undo those and pull the tank up to give you enough room to slide the ecu forward.

Then put everything back in the reverse. Making sure anything unplugged is plugged back in. I ran the bike up once the new filter was in just to double check it?s all good, before putting the panels back.

I?ll throw some pics up when I get in front of my Mac.
 
Great guide Gav, thanks, i got the cover bolts out, but, wasnt aware of the Velcro, thats probably why it felt so tight, thats when i didnt want to force anything just incase i broke a clip or something.

i?ll give it a go over the weekend.

cheers
 
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