MY17 S1000RR (Lockdown idle time)

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GavD101

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I thought i would chuck up a few pics of my S1000RR while we are in lock down....(It is something else to do!)

I bought this back in October 2018 from Bahnstormer Maidenhead. It's a 17 Sport which HP Forged wheels. The bike was used and had something like 3000 on the clock and was mint. Previous owner had added R&G rad and oil cooler guards. Other than that it was bone stock. I always said i'd never own a litre bike, too scary, too much for the road and I do not need it, 600s are enough blah, blah (I actually still think that). But curiosity set in and I always loved the look of the Gen 3 S1000RR. I took one out for a ride and 3 months later i traded in my Daytona 675 for this.


The ride back home i will never forget...it scared the s**t out of me and i was only tickling it. Not even ashamed of saying that. And I thought i made a terrible mistake. The 675 i could just chuck about and knew exactly what i was in for but the BM was a different kettle of fish. So in March 19 i decided to take it out on track. I had done a couple trackdays before but always on the same track. When i inherited an old rust box Vito it allowed me to go further afield and as such i said 2019 would be a full season of varied tracks, while investing in my riding.

The BM sill scared the hell out of me that first day on track but i absolutely loved it. It helped install the track day bug. 2nd track day i had already got myself warmers etc. I was definitely the one with half the gear and very little idea. But throughout last year I learned so much through tuition, making mistakes talking to others and i'd also say the bike really did help build up confidence.

So 20 months later, 2000 plus miles on the track. The assault on your senses from a litre bike i am finally used however i will always respect. And now i am used to the power it means i am far more relaxed.

Anyway here is a small timeline of pics of the bike and the mods i have done since owning it. The bike is still a road bike but it will spend more time on track, so the mods are focused for track, these include mainly crash protection :nevreness:

IMG-4179-1024x768.jpg

First day picking it up. A day later i installed GB racing covers and front axle protector.

IMG-6052-e1587574717768.jpg

Halfway through last year. Only mods then were a SC project slip on which i usually use on the road and the HP blanking set for the indicator, tail tidy and mirrors. I modified the indicators and tailtidy. I installed quick release plugs so i can quickly whip off indicators and tailtidy before a track day.


IMG6398-e1587577156114.jpgIMG6397-e1587577556173.jpg

Probably one of the best mods (for me anyway). Valtermoto rearsets, were never used and were purchased from a forum member on here (Sorry i forgot who) . Like most of my mods they are most 2nd hand off forum members, crawling through fleabay or using discount codes haha

IMG-6424-e1587574704186.jpg

Incase it (I) decides to take a trip into the kitty litter or skid down the black stuff i thought installing carbon frame guards for the swing arm and frame were a good idea. Frame guard from Conquest racing and the Ilmberger swingarm guard was from a member on this forum.
 
The bike is my everything bike. (I even used it today to carry a load of tools into London to sort bits and bobs at my elderly father-in-laws flat) I do not know if it will ever be full track bike. It probably won't have a race fairing but i want to work out a way of quickly replacing the fairings and nose cone with a race fairing. I think Ilmberger will come to the rescue there and maybe some cheap chinese fairing or used.

Complete list:

S1000RR Sport with HP forged wheels
SC Project GP70 (Not a fan but it is light)
FullSix Carbon Frame guards
Ilmberger carbon swing arm Guards
Valtermoto rear sets
GB Racing engine case covers
GB racing rear axle slider
GB racing crash bobbins
R&G front axle slider
R&G carbon tail slider (FYI worst quality product ever, i spent more time with a sander trying to tidy them up)
Shido Lithium battery
HP blanking plates
Brembo SC pads
Motul RF660 brake fluid

(I am sure i have missed something)

Future mods will be a full system and PC. More for weight reduction than anything else.
Ilmberger nose cone and and cheaper lower fairing if i can find it. I am going to mod these as well so they are a fairly quick to swap between track and road use.
 
Hi. I can?t see any of the pictures. Does anyone know why? They have a lock symbol on them. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Fantastic post, thanks for taking the time to share your ownership experience thus far.
Very glad indeed to hear you?re thoroughly enjoying your RR [emoji41]
 
Hi. I can?t see any of the pictures. Does anyone know why? They have a lock symbol on them. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lack of app permissions maybe? I can see them on android Tapatalk

- Alex
 
Thanks guys for all the kind comments.
Pics should load ok, they?re being hosted on my work site.
Fantastic post, thanks for taking the time to share your ownership experience thus far.
Very glad indeed to hear you?re thoroughly enjoying your RR [emoji41]
Cheers buddy. I do generally love it and thought why not share. I cannot see this one going anywhere.
I?ll keep updating the post when we get out of this lockdown and i do more interesting things to it.
 
Great write up and thanks for sharing....have to be honest and say that is my fav colour scheme for the Gen 3.
 
Great bike ,I cant wait to learn more about mine

It is fun learning. Only thing i do find fun is the convoluted menu and sub menus system. I can't even work the stopwatch haha! Suspension and user mode is about it for me.

Great write up and thanks for sharing....have to be honest and say that is my fav colour scheme for the Gen 3.

Thanks bud. And I agree, I nearly bought a black one but this scheme is my fave. Another reason i want to keep it in road trim.

I'll keep adding to the thread as it/I evolve. I have some Rental clip-ons to install, I'll do a short-write up of that went. One of the reason for installing these is in case it goes down and I want to try and protect the forks from any potential damage.
Then the next mod after that is a visit to HM racing to have the suspension setup. At the moment and my level of riding I do not feel the need to spend money on expensive drop in cartridges etc. Ideally I want to take the stock suspension as far as I can to match my level of riding. My knowledge of suspension came from Motocross, while some of it is transferable some isn't so I think I need an expert to show me the ropes.
 
I struggle with the set up menu and the switchgear especially the indicator switch but love my bike its the best ive owned
 
I managed to get around to fitting my Renthal Clip-ons. (20mm offset) Fairly straight forward to install, especially if you have all the right tools. But you do need to take your time fitting them and especially so when measuring the holes that you need to drill to secure the switch gear and throttle housing.

For me the main reason to fit clip-ons were to give the forks a fighting chance if the bike decides to get too close to the deck on track. ( Obviously I hope that never happens) Plus i wanted a bit more width on the bars. The stock clips-on position I liked which is a bonus because it meant I have no interference issues with the fairings or the back of the headlight housing (on the throttle side). Which is something other owners have mentioned. I won't lie though, they are very close. And even though the clamps are stock height and similar offset, don't let that fool you. They do have less rise to stock clip-ons and if you went for a Clip-on with more offset then they will make contact with the OE fairings.

A couple of tips that maybe useful for anyone else wanting to change their clip ons.

Tools:
Top Nut on the crown needs a 36mm socket
Buy Torx set and or multitool as there are some tiny Torx head bolts on both the clutch and throttle assembly.
Zip ties, you will be cutting lots of zip ties off.
Allen key set and multi tool
Toque wrench
Torch is useful if you are working in a poorly lit garage like mine.
HSD drill bits and a half decent drill
Vice to hold the tubes for when you drill them. I don't personally recommending doing it on the bike.

Potentially useful install tips:

Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir at the start, gives you more room to work with when the top crown is .
Clutch side - Watch this video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GY0rP4sWbfk It explains everything regarding the clutch side removal.
Cut all the zip ties off that secure the DDC cable, having lots of slack is helpful as you need to unplug the cable. (plug is behind the left fairing)

IMG-6900-e1588082675136.jpg

Throttle side - A bit more fiddly but this video (same Youtuber as the above) goes into detail and on throttle removal and install:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AP3vfrXgtk
Again remove the zip ties before attempting to removal the cables.

The time consuming bit is measuring the hole you need to drill in order to secure the throttle. Unlike the clutch side which is pretty much centre of the tube, you can mark the hole with relative ease. But the throttle is at an angle. The only thing can say is measure, measure again and check, measure again and drill, hoping you've measured correctly.

IMG-6904-e1588082686267.jpg <- the hole you need to drill for this bolt is the one you need to take your time with.

Once you have drilled everything the rest is straight forward and just a matter of putting it all back together and setting up the bar position. If you are keeping to near stock position you shouldn't have clearance issues. If you change it then most likely you will clearance issue. There is an excellent post on this forum regarding this and what you need to do:
https://s1000rrforum.co.uk/showthread.php?12398-Renthal-Gen-3-Clip-ons-amp-amp-Oberon-Performance-Large-Universal-bar-ends-review&highlight=renthal+clipons

Putting everything back together is pretty straight forward and simply a matter of doing the reverse of what you have already done. Note Top crown won't simply slide back on, the fork tubes/steerer will have moved and you will need to give the front wheel/forks a wiggle (Shove) to align it again.
The Renthal clamp bolts only need 9NM, I thought that was rather low considering BMW recommend 12NM. I went to 10NM but so if anyone has any recommendations i would appreciate that. I also used locktite on the Renthal bolts and tubes. They didn't mention it but I thought it was good to have another level of security.

I ran a brake lever guard on my old bars. (Gilles) but it will not work with an aftermarket Clip-on as it was designed to bolt into the OE Clip-ons which are threaded. You will need a universal brake guard in order to fit any aftermarket race clip-on. Also note Renthal clip-ons do not (for obvious reason) run bar end weights. If you are on track only it won't matter. But if your bike is used on both road and track, then you will need a universal bar weight. I bought Oberon, which I am hoping I can mod to fit my brake guard. (Otherwise there is a brake for sale soon)

IMG-6902-e1588091453929.jpg

Overall I am impressed with the Clip-ons, then again i have used Renthal products for years and never had an issue with their quality. In terms of feel, i cannot say yet as i haven't had a chance to ride the bike and probably won't be unless I nip down to the shops or need to commute into town. But as soon as I do i will give some feedback.

IMG-6910-e1588082712519.jpgIMG-6911-e1588082698881.jpg
 
I managed to get around to fitting my Renthal Clip-ons. (20mm offset) Fairly straight forward to install, especially if you have all the right tools. But you do need to take your time fitting them and especially so when measuring the holes that you need to drill to secure the switch gear and throttle housing.

For me the main reason to fit clip-ons were to give the forks a fighting chance if the bike decides to get too close to the deck on track. ( Obviously I hope that never happens) Plus i wanted a bit more width on the bars. The stock clips-on position I liked which is a bonus because it meant I have no interference issues with the fairings or the back of the headlight housing (on the throttle side). Which is something other owners have mentioned. I won't lie though, they are very close. And even though the clamps are stock height and similar offset, don't let that fool you. They do have less rise to stock clip-ons and if you went for a Clip-on with more offset then they will make contact with the OE fairings.

A couple of tips that maybe useful for anyone else wanting to change their clip ons.

Tools:
Top Nut on the crown needs a 36mm socket
Buy Torx set and or multitool as there are some tiny Torx head bolts on both the clutch and throttle assembly.
Zip ties, you will be cutting lots of zip ties off.
Allen key set and multi tool
Toque wrench
Torch is useful if you are working in a poorly lit garage like mine.
HSD drill bits and a half decent drill
Vice to hold the tubes for when you drill them. I don't personally recommending doing it on the bike.

Potentially useful install tips:

Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir at the start, gives you more room to work with when the top crown is .
Clutch side - Watch this video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GY0rP4sWbfk It explains everything regarding the clutch side removal.
Cut all the zip ties off that secure the DDC cable, having lots of slack is helpful as you need to unplug the cable. (plug is behind the left fairing)

View attachment 5140

Throttle side - A bit more fiddly but this video (same Youtuber as the above) goes into detail and on throttle removal and install:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9AP3vfrXgtk
Again remove the zip ties before attempting to removal the cables.

The time consuming bit is measuring the hole you need to drill in order to secure the throttle. Unlike the clutch side which is pretty much centre of the tube, you can mark the hole with relative ease. But the throttle is at an angle. The only thing can say is measure, measure again and check, measure again and drill, hoping you've measured correctly.

View attachment 5141 <- the hole you need to drill for this bolt is the one you need to take your time with.

Once you have drilled everything the rest is straight forward and just a matter of putting it all back together and setting up the bar position. If you are keeping to near stock position you shouldn't have clearance issues. If you change it then most likely you will clearance issue. There is an excellent post on this forum regarding this and what you need to do:
https://s1000rrforum.co.uk/showthread.php?12398-Renthal-Gen-3-Clip-ons-amp-amp-Oberon-Performance-Large-Universal-bar-ends-review&highlight=renthal+clipons

Putting everything back together is pretty straight forward and simply a matter of doing the reverse of what you have already done. Note Top crown won't simply slide back on, the fork tubes/steerer will have moved and you will need to give the front wheel/forks a wiggle (Shove) to align it again.
The Renthal clamp bolts only need 9NM, I thought that was rather low considering BMW recommend 12NM. I went to 10NM but so if anyone has any recommendations i would appreciate that. I also used locktite on the Renthal bolts and tubes. They didn't mention it but I thought it was good to have another level of security.

I ran a brake lever guard on my old bars. (Gilles) but it will not work with an aftermarket Clip-on as it was designed to bolt into the OE Clip-ons which are threaded. You will need a universal brake guard in order to fit any aftermarket race clip-on. Also note Renthal clip-ons do not (for obvious reason) run bar end weights. If you are on track only it won't matter. But if your bike is used on both road and track, then you will need a universal bar weight. I bought Oberon, which I am hoping I can mod to fit my brake guard. (Otherwise there is a brake for sale soon)

View attachment 5144

Overall I am impressed with the Clip-ons, then again i have used Renthal products for years and never had an issue with their quality. In terms of feel, i cannot say yet as i haven't had a chance to ride the bike and probably won't be unless I nip down to the shops or need to commute into town. But as soon as I do i will give some feedback.

View attachment 5142View attachment 5143

Excellent write up! I have those clipons and bar ends on my Gen 3 [emoji41]
I had to fit steering bump stops and mod the steering lock as wanted the placement wider than stock. Am glad to hear you are happy with the placement without limiting your lock, that saves a lot of agro
 
Thanks Oli! It was actually your post (Which i included in the thread) that helped me decide to go ahead with the Renthals and what to expect :)
 
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