Goldfren s33, still reccomended as standard pad replacement?

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Yep all pistons were cleaned throughly, and push back in by hand with a small amount of force.
 
I have similar issue... awaiting a price from reactive parts to send calipers to Brembo for rebuild.

I also am on my 2nd set of brembo disks. 26k miles. Thinking they may be warped.

Interesting to know the outcome.


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In terms of "rotation" what should be normal?
Should the front wheel spin freely? Or feel a small/medium drag?
 
I have similar issue... awaiting a price from reactive parts to send calipers to Brembo for rebuild.

I also am on my 2nd set of brembo disks. 26k miles. Thinking they may be warped.

Interesting to know the outcome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Go to HM and get them to rebuild if you want to outsource it.

- Alex
 
In terms of "rotation" what should be normal?
Should the front wheel spin freely? Or feel a small/medium drag?

Negligible drag. When the brake is applied the main (fluid) seal distorts. When the brake is released this seal returns to its normal shape, retracting the piston. The spinning of the disc then pushes the pads back, ensuring a disc/pad clearance. The picture you posted of your pads shows evidence of binding. This is not normal.
 
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Watched something the other day, might have been Crafar, saying that better calipers (race) are much better at pulling the pads back off the disc on release. Because they have to reduce frictional losses.

I wonder if this is true or just a function of lower friction pistons that are cleaned more regularly.

- Alex
 
I'd agree with snooker, certainly not the pads or it would cover the surface, it's resin overheating and bubbling to the surface... got to be sticking on somehow Moran... the wheel should turn over easily up on a stand.. there will be a very light brush of the disc on pad but nothing more.

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Negligible drag. When the brake is applied the main (fluid) seal distorts. When the brake is released this seal returns to its normal shape, retracting the piston. The spinning of the disc then pushes the pads back, ensuring a disc/pad clearance. The picture you posted of your pads shows evidence of binding. This is not normal.
Agreed it looks like binding.

- Alex
 
Thanks for the info guys, I'll remove pads in the morning.
Fashion some bits of wood, or the old pads. And pump the pistons out a bit to inspect. But the previous pads had no issue, AFAIK. I'll maybe re insert them to see if it improves it, if not we'll lucky enough it's still under warranty....
 
Caliper Rebuild

I have similar issue... awaiting a price from reactive parts to send calipers to Brembo for rebuild.

Go to HM and get them to rebuild if you want to outsource it.

+1. Any decent motorcycle mechanic should be able to service and rebuild your calipers for you. Brembo will likely just charge you a small fortune and take forever doing it.
 
So pulled pads again today, can't see any issues with pistons or seals, left one pair of pads in with a spacer and pumped the two free pistons out a fair bit, gave them a clean again and pushed back in without issue.

The new pads did come with the "anti-squeal" backing plates. So I've removed them as the OEM ones didn't have any and that seems to removed a fair bit of the binding.

I assume the full thickness pads and shims were enough to use up all the space so the pistons werent returning enough?
 
So pulled pads again today, can't see any issues with pistons or seals, left one pair of pads in with a spacer and pumped the two free pistons out a fair bit, gave them a clean again and pushed back in without issue.

The new pads did come with the "anti-squeal" backing plates. So I've removed them as the OEM ones didn't have any and that seems to removed a fair bit of the binding.

I assume the full thickness pads and shims were enough to use up all the space so the pistons werent returning enough?

Yes, the anti squeal shims would cause the problem. I'm surprised that you were able to get the calipers back onto the discs! I was warned that replacement pads should have a backing plate thickness of at least 5mm otherwise there is a risk of well worn pad dropping out of the caliper! Worth checking.
 
Sadly haven't been out on the bike since between lockdown and bad weather over here. But the front wheel deffinatly spins a bit more free on the front paddock stand
 
Never thought of asking at the start if the set up was stock with no changes/additions thereafter, it's a good idea when someone posts a similar problem.....If any of us had asked that I think we'd have all jumped on the shims as a starting point...bunch of dumbasses lol...

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Finally got out a run yesterday,
Took it around a relatively quite Ulster Grand Prix circuit.

Alot better, deffinatly not binding on, and can't say I had any issues with the stopping power of the s33 pads either

So good news all around
 
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