Gen 3 quickshifter issues

S1000RR  FORUM

Help Support S1000RR FORUM:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well in that case, that's the QS reset and the TPs reset. Using the full throttle technique.

Seemed fine on the paddock stand with just about 15% throttle up and down
 
so is it still doing it ? my money is still clutch lever/switch if it hasn't fixed it....
 
Basically over here, we haven't had a break in rain/hail for about a week so need to wait for slightly better weather to get out for a quick run. But it was working smoothly on the paddock stand. And I did check the clutch switches, but clicking when they should and little tabs don't look bent.
 
yea it's not that theres an issue with tth etabs or switches,it's the fact that at speed,the lever,if not adjusted properly can activate, the 2 micro switches,fooling the bike into thinking your engaging the clutch,hence no q/shifter or blip
 
So finally got a break in the rain over here, took the bike a run, even after the QS reset. It still seems to be faulting. Although I'll admit at higher revs it felt smoother.

I did lean downto the shifter and operate it with my left hand, it seemed to work perfect. So my thinking is that it's possibly the position of the gear lever? As it seems to fault when I'm doing it with my foot.
 
To confirm the function of the relevant clutch switch try the following:
1. Confirm the clutch cable is correctly adjusted (1mm slack at the pivot, cold).
2. Take the bike for a test run. Engage cruise control and then pull the clutch lever. Cruise control should disengage almost as soon as you take up the slack in the cable.
Good luck!
 
Boot not releasing the shifter is a good shout. Flick your toes out between shifts to test it.
 
Deffinatly not the boots, as it happens with my foot fully out of the way, I. E shifted in 4th, foot had rested away from lever for a few secs, then goto click 5th after some accel and it doesn't move.
 
Can you make a photo of top of quickshifter as well ? Is it mounted at 90 angle ?

Also make a photo of your clutch level and especially if you can, the bottom of it.
 


I assume that the lever is actually too low, I'm a size 10, so guessing it's hitting my toes and theyre pushing the lever more forward, rather than up?
 
those angles are all over the place. the top lever is too high and the shift lever needs altering too. you want them parallel with each other. the top lever should be pointing down slightly, i would say the split wants to be at the top and then sort the foot lever out.
 
Yes, you'll never get the rod perpendicular because of offset pivot points, ideally the shift rod should be at right angles to each lever.
 
Top info lads, like I said it was in for the top linkage service action(replacement) so they actually refitted it like that. And with the shape its in that deffinatly means it's too low at the toes. I'll get it adjusted tonight, then have a word with mottorrad next time I'm in
 
The gearbox input shaft has a datum mark on it which should align with the cut out in the arm. You'll need to disconnect the connector on the connecting rod to adjust it. Don't turn on the ignition with this disconnected or you'll get an error code. The connector rod has right hand threads at both ends. I'd set the gear pedal about 60mm below the footrest as a starter.
 
OK, so sofar I got the top linkage adjusted, it was out about 3 teeth/splines clockwise, so I've removed it rotated anti clockwise and lined up the mark with the cut out. That has lowered the top and raised the bottom a fair bit, but I still feel I need to raise the actual foot lever.

Can this be done using just one of the rose joints? Or does it need to be an equal amount of turns each end?
 
Back
Top