Bleeding brakes without GS-911

Hi,

I thought I'd share a left field thought for those having problems with getting all the air out of the ABS brakes without a GS-911. I forgot to post it up last year.

I've changed my Calipers, Brakelines and M/C and even with the GS-911, I couldn't get that rock hard feeling on the brake lever last year (all the S1000RR's I try in the showroom have really squidgy brakes), but out on a ride I worked out a simple way.... RAIN mode.

If you set the bike in RAIN mode, the ABS kicks in really easily, so go out for a good ride and with checking NO ONE is behind you, regularly hit the brakes hard. If looking at the dash you'll see the ABS light flashing. I tend to do front and back brakes separately. i.e only brake using one.

After a good ride, I bled the top M/C and loads of air the GS-911 couldn't get out, came out. I think it's the long pulses plus the vibration from bike and road that do it. But it's a rock solid lever now, like a non abs bike.

Hope this helps someone.

J

inspired me to have another go at the back brake, checked it's all sliding (caliper / piston) plenty of pad left.
adjusted push rod to m cylinder maybe 10 mm movement before pads start to touch, had a go with the bleeder and got a bit of air out topped up fluid all felt lovely ran it up on stands no binding - rode to petrol station about 1 mile all lovely actually worked! (tried rain and slick).
got quarter mile from petrol station locked solid - no movement at pedal at all, out with tools and about 2 turns off the adjuster to get some slack - more than i'd like but done a few miles and seems ok now. except more slack than i'd like but could do without cooking the pads!
any ideas?
oh couldn't get abs light to come on,
fronts are fine btw

In the S1000RR if you have air in the pump, unless you use GS911 or the BMW certified service tool, there is no way you will bleed them properly. I only changed the MC and without using my GS911 I had hard lever and thought I was OK. When I was in Misano 2 weeks ago I had my lever soft after 2-3 laps. If you changed all that staff you have air in the ABS pump and you must use the GS911. Even if it is just a small bubble the brakes will not be as it should if you push them hard.

Hi, I?m assuming your talking about the rear brake? The difference between the brakes binding and not binding is very small. Adjusting the m/c as you did the second time will allow for heat expansion of all the parts. I set my clearance up after a good hard ride as I?d fitted rearsets as well. I?m describing the point at which the pads start to bite to full lock. This can be a very firm pedal/lever once all the air is out. You should be able to lock your rear wheel. I can on mine on SC2?s on a hot day. Check your pads for glazing? J

DrIoannis said:

In the S1000RR if you have air in the pump, unless you use GS911 or the BMW certified service tool, there is no way you will bleed them properly. I only changed the MC and without using my GS911 I had hard lever and thought I was OK. When I was in Misano 2 weeks ago I had my lever soft after 2-3 laps. If you changed all that staff you have air in the ABS pump and you must use the GS911. Even if it is just a small bubble the brakes will not be as it should if you push them hard.

Click to expand...

Hi, I?ve got the Gs-911 and it didn?t get all the air out of the ABS. Setting off the ABS whilst riding does the same thing but over a longer period when riding. Try both and see....

yep, will need a bit more work, i've got a gs911 and gilles rearsets, the fluid was changed by bmw at the service - so not sure where the air came from!
the front's are fine even after adding the pipe extender for the gilles bars - just bled from the top no problem.
was just surprised at the amount of "slack" that warming up takes out.

Yep, it is surprising 0.5mm too much can lock your brake once it's hot. On the rear it takes a few adjustments to get it perfect.

used the 911 didn't seem to get ant more air out but pedal has firmed up a lot.
see what happens tonight - will have spanners and torx key in my pocket in case it needs backing off again!

Remember to let the rear brake cool off bit between each hard application. It wouldn't normally get that hot as it's not used continuously apart in the mountains to squat the bike into continuous downhill hairpins i.e you apply the rear brake a fraction before the front (takes the weight off your wrists and doesn't load up the front as much. J

had to back it off a little - due to paranoia! but seems to be steady now - had a good 150 mile ride yesterday - no more air coming out- had the pads out and cleaned them and disc with brake cleaner - gave them a quick emery paper - but looked ok - brake stiii not great - so have ordered some DP pads (as recommended) see what that does -but at least the pedal travel is reasonable now (i've also knoked up a little aluminium bracket to get the pedal in a better position as the rearsets don't have any adjustment)

Funnily enough I use the race DP pads all round in my S1K. Love them. The standard oe pads were awful. Constantly glazing and not gripping. J

DP?
Can I have the full make/model?

- Alex

Ahh found, DP622
http://www.dp-brakes.com

- Alex

They also do a more aggressive motocross version of the pad but it wears the disc more.