Chain life

Re: Gearing

RyS1000RR said:

Changing gearing has no affect on the speedo.

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OK. Wonder what else they told me wasn't correct.
Ry. You're a track man. I presume changing to 16x46 would be beneficial on short tracks, such as Brands?

Many bikes have the speed off of the gearbox, RR isn't one of them...it's off the ABS ring.

16/46 120links is perfect for the track, but will be a bit aggressive for the road. Up to you. The shorter the gears the more changes per lap could be required - but it may mean you can run 2nd where you would run 1st before.

16/46 520 will be great for brands.

Only Silverstone GP would probably benefit more for 16/45

Re: Chains

Huge said:

...and you know WTF you're doing. Heh heh.

Thanks Everyone.

Spoken to Chas at B&C (thanks Ry), got quotes for a touch under ?260 which isn't too bad.

Now deciding whether I go with standard 17x45 or the slightly naughty 16x46. 9.5% change in speed. What do you lot reckon?
Does the speedo become even more bollocks than it currently is? (currently 10% too fast, would it then be 20% too fast? Might just put tape over the fekkin thing)

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Hugh, is that ?260 fitted? I paid ?180 for a DID ZVM-X chain, a JT Sprocket front and a Supersprox rear sprocket. In addition you should replace the gearbox sprocket lock washer (?4 OEM). I changed the sprockets and a local independent guy fitted the chain (I don't have a chain tool). He charged me ?20 and reset my service reminder for no additional cost.

May be worth shopping about?

Re: Chains

snooker said:

Hugh, is that ?260 fitted? I paid ?180 for a DID ZVM-X chain, a JT Sprocket front and a Supersprox rear sprocket. In addition you should replace the gearbox sprocket lock washer (?4 OEM). I changed the sprockets and a local independent guy fitted the chain (I don't have a chain tool). He charged me ?20 and reset my service reminder for no additional cost.

May be worth shopping about?

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Thanks Snook. ?260 supplied (inc. VAT.) ?180 sounds 30% better to me. I trust my guy to do stuff like a lock washer. Did you get all your bits from the same supplier?

Re: Chains

Huge said:

Thanks Snook. ?260 supplied (inc. VAT.) ?180 sounds 30% better to me. I trust my guy to do stuff like a lock washer. Did you get all your bits from the same supplier?

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The chap who fitted the chain supplied the chain and gearbox sprocket at a discount. I ordered the Supersprox rear direct from Performance Parts in Daventry. Ask your guy what he can do them for. The only issue I had was that the new parts made the original sprocket nuts and rear axle nut look so naff that I replaced them as well. ?40, thank you!

Gearing

16/46 is a good compromise for a lot of tracks but you will find that this gearing will make the bike feel more aggressive than the OEM 17/45. This may be less than ideal on the road especially if you tour on the bike. I would personally replace the front locking tab as well when you change the front sprocket. If you are routinely changing gearing to suit different tracks then replacing the locking tab isn?t really necessary. However, given your mileage and the fact it?s never been changed before, then I certainly would do so in this case. It?s a cheap and readily available part from BMW.

I?ve just fitted a DID heavy duty chain and JT sprockets standard teeth.
Using a DID KM500 tool it was easy peasy to remove the original and rivet the new.
The originals lasted 15k but the I also get 155 plus miles to a tank.

Remember to loosen the front sprocket nut before removing the chain.


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Thanks all. Just checked the quote from B&C and spotted that they included 4 sprockets (16x46 and 17x45). Gonna stick with what I know so lost the 16x46, and total cost is ?200.83 including VAT and delivery. She's booked in for next Friday when she also gets her naughty shoes back on (off with the Pilot 5's and on with the Rosso 3's) for Brands GP on the 2nd.

You sticking Pegasus Shoes on her.... "Link to the past" players will get it !

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I tend to wipe it clean very often, sometimes i use silkolene titanium lube, other times an oil wet rag, and i never ride in wet conditions. Got a chain split link for easy removal as its a pig to clean in place.

:very_drunk:

vro551 said:

I tend to wipe it clean very often, sometimes i use silkolene titanium lube, other times an oil wet rag, and i never ride in wet conditions. Got a chain split link for easy removal as its a pig to clean in place.

:very_drunk:

Click to expand...

.. split link... typo I'm hoping lol

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Chain Link

I would personally only ever use a rivet link on a 200+ bhp superbike. It?s really not that difficult to clean a chain; especially if you do it regularly.

Re: Chain Link

the split link is on the 636 not on the beamer. To be 100% honest I cant understand all the fuss about split links, all chains are made up of plates, pins and rollers. Would be interesting to know what fails on a chain, any feedback about chain failures

I don't have any negative personal experiences, it's more the thought of a potential problem...a rivetted link avoids that.... but mind you guarantees nothing for the remainder of the chain...

I can clean and lube my chain in 5 minutes as I do after every run...never really considered it a problem...

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you can never coat the chain from all sides without making a mess of the tyre , swingarm etc

All down to how clean is clean I suppose..

I've a bike lift so my chain is about my midriff in height...makes it piss easy for me to clean and lube mine without anything going anywhere...

My chains done maybe 10k it's in excellent nick..

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Right then. Sounds like a clean and lube after each ride is in order.

Got muc off to clean and werthlube. Brush and rag to clean?

I usually use a sheet of cardboard between wheel and chain to stop worst of mess in past.

What do you guys do? (I gotta paddock stand but can?t remove wheel or chain)

Paddock stand, blue roll paper towel in place to protect.

Spin wheel, spray cleaner, keep spinning, hold brush on the top of the lower chain side.

Run the chain through the brush making sure you get pressure on each side. Spray with more cleaner. Always spinning the wheel by hand.

Get a handful of blue roll and run the chsin through your handful.

Repeat until happy.

Spray lube, upperside of the lower chain as this is the side that hits the sprockets. Be liberal with it.

Spin for a few more revolutions, stop and leave a rag beneath in case of drips.

- Alex

I do same as Alex but fire engine up and stick into 2nd gear.... just be careful with rag when holding against chain...

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