Replacing engine-block cover, left

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Flup

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The cover on the left is leaking after a crash. I bought a new one and I have the BMW manual.
But I am not a mechanic and doubting if its hard to do or pretty straight forward?

Looks doable on the manual but does anyone have some good tips with experience changing the cover?
Do I need to align things when I remove the cover and put it back on?
 
do you mean engine case side cover?

very easy,just clean the mating area before adding a new gasket or sealant
 
Yes they are stretch bolts, the tightening isn’t a specific torque, it’s one of those tighten so much then 90 degrees more type scenarios
 
Yes they are stretch bolts, the tightening isn’t a specific torque, it’s one of those tighten so much then 90 degrees more type scenarios


with those ally bolts,your far better sticking to the rec torque settings as the shear very very easily,even better (and cheaper) get a set of stainless replacements
 
with those ally bolts,your far better sticking to the rec torque settings as the shear very very easily,even better (and cheaper) get a set of stainless replacements
GB racing covers come with stainless bolts and recommend 10nm which like you say is far easier. BMW state tighten to a set torque then go 90 degrees more, I reused the original bolts on my previous bike when I replaced the cover and sure enough one snapped, very easily! Luckily I could remove it by hand after removing the cover again. Be careful the starter cog doesn’t displace as you remove the cover, if it falls out and hits the ground it can break
 
Sorry was thinking of RHS timing chain cover re stretch bolts
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LHS likely same as per the other lads posts..

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What I meant is the alternator cover. This means I have to remove the complete cover and someone told me that you have to be carefull because of the big magnet which can pulls things out.

11147726966_1_B_grande.jpg
 
I've never removed that side but consulting the Haynes manual the Stator is housed within the cover and is secured by three bolts and a small clamp for the connecting lead to the battery etc. Yes there are magnets, however they are bound and fixed in place so don't panic, you may have to gently tap loose the cover after removing the bolts, this will break the seal and pull the cover firmly due the magnets.

The manual suggests draining the oil, I would imagine this is only for replacing the Alternator as a whole as the manual description is for replacing the Alternator as a complete unit. It's none to clear about the Clutch push rod but I'm pretty sure you will figure that out as you remove the cover.

You will have to swap over the stator within the housing you have..I can't see any real problems here tbh..

Give it a go and pay attention to the torque values some are as low as 3NM plus 90⁰

All will be revealed when you remove the cover... The Haynes manual or workshop manual procedures look pretty straightforward.

Some of the other lads may have more to add to this, but to me it looks a simple enough procedure.



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pretty straight forward - I put a new stator in mine.
stretch bolts are ok to reuse if you don't go mad tightening them - short end of the hex key is good.
oil doesn't need draining (if you use paddock stand)
there is no gasket just use grey silicone rtv (bmw use dow corning)
don't forget to loosen the clutch cable first
 
I've never removed that side but consulting the Haynes manual the Stator is housed within the cover and is secured by three bolts and a small clamp for the connecting lead to the battery etc. Yes there are magnets, however they are bound and fixed in place so don't panic, you may have to gently tap loose the cover after removing the bolts, this will break the seal and pull the cover firmly due the magnets.

The manual suggests draining the oil, I would imagine this is only for replacing the Alternator as a whole as the manual description is for replacing the Alternator as a complete unit. It's none to clear about the Clutch push rod but I'm pretty sure you will figure that out as you remove the cover.

You will have to swap over the stator within the housing you have..I can't see any real problems here tbh..

Give it a go and pay attention to the torque values some are as low as 3NM plus 90⁰

All will be revealed when you remove the cover... The Haynes manual or workshop manual procedures look pretty straightforward.

Some of the other lads may have more to add to this, but to me it looks a simple enough procedure.



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Thx some good background info!
 
pretty straight forward - I put a new stator in mine.
stretch bolts are ok to reuse if you don't go mad tightening them - short end of the hex key is good.
oil doesn't need draining (if you use paddock stand)
there is no gasket just use grey silicone rtv (bmw use dow corning)
don't forget to loosen the clutch cable first

Will give it a try myself I can always go to the dealer if it doesn't work.
 
I need some new screws as well as there onetime use according to the manual so will buy the silicone from BMW cost around €30,-
I got the rtv from halfords for ?5 or ?6 - I think the bolts are about ?3 each and there are 12 of them. as I say, I reused mine no problem the torque values are quite low so just pull them up finger tight and you can pretty much feel the tightness when it hurts your finger with the torx key - anyway I've done about 500 miles since and no signs of a leak - also didn't want to go to the faff and wait for dealer bits
 
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