Gen 3 questions

Alright guys
My gen 3 is with the mechanic's getting converted to track.
1st - They've said the OEM grips are integrated into the switchgear?? I guessed I would lose the heated grips but surely you can fit aftermarket grips? A quick search and can't see any grips listed for 15 onwards.

2nd - I've got Bitubo front & back from my gen 2 but going to try the electronic suspension on a few td's first. I've heard the gen 3 suspension is pretty good straight out of the crate. What's people thoughts on the standard suspension on track compared to Bitubo/Ohlins etc?
And do I just whack it in slick mode and leave be? I don't know enough about suspension to mess about with the settings

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1. You can separate the OEM grip from the warmers, carefully. And then you'll need 2 packs of Renthal grips to replace them as you need 2x large diameter grips and the pack come with a large and small. There is or was a guide on here for splitting the OEM grip from the heating element. If you're not bothered about the heating element then the bars are the same for all gen's afaik...
My recommendation would be to switch to clip-ons for the track. Fit them with switchgear/throttle from ebay + your brake and clutch levers. Then you can revert back to OEM.
PP-Tuning, Alpha or Lightech Clip-ons can be drilled which is required for OEM switchgear.

2. I'd probably fit the Bitubo once it is serviced assuming you are swapping over? There's nothing wrong with the DDC but well, you own higher spec parts already so I'd put them on. Having said that the rearshock may not fit. Gen3 has a different part to a Gen2. Hawk Racing are the importers, probably worth checking with them. If you can't be bothered then the DDC will work for most. Slick mode and keep an eye on your fork travel using zip ties. Whatever suspension you get fitted, get it sprung to your weight and setup.

I bought my Gen 3 for road / Nurburgring and a few trackdays where I couldn't use the Ducati due to noise and I've always used the electronic suspension. I'm only changing to uprated Mupo because I'm going racing. I did find the front a big vague on the DDC and not confidence inspiring at Brands GP but it was still very good, and I had no problems at all at Spa and the many Nurburgring trips (apart from being hit by a car but thats another story...!).

To get full separate control of compression/rebound dampening you have to fit the front suspension pot sensor and I would definitely recommend this as I did it at the last trackday in Portimao which is fairly similar to Brands GP and didn't have the vague feeling that I had at Brands.

I know people racing at top club level with the electronic stuff.

Cheers for the response guy's.
Got them to fit SES clip on's and they did point out I'll prob need a new clutch cable as it's a bit tight.
I've always used the stock switchgear but I'll look into ebay switchgear n throttle & keep the oem stuff clean, good idea Alex [emoji846]
Already had the Bitubo fully serviced & set up for me by HM Racing so guessing it would be a quick set up if I chose that route.
Would any normal alleged suspension guru be able to set up the electronic suspension?
I'm used to fully set up K-tech or Bitubo over the years so just wondering the process of just a basic set up on electronic.
My pace is not slow but not the fastest either lol
I did start racing NC last year but crashed out on my 2nd weekend at Donington and broke many bones, so guessing it'll take a few td's to get up to pace as ain't been on track since


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Suspension

DDC is fine for club level racing... but only if setup (springs, air gap etc) correctly and you have a potentiometer fitted to seperate front compression and rebound. If you are racing at MRO or SSTK pace then you should definitely consider fitting an aftermarket cartridge kit and rear shock. This will give you the fidelity, and level of adjustment, that you need at that pace. The best advice is to get out on track and experiment. If the DDC system isn?t providing you with the feedback that you need, then you can always remove it.