Wheel bearings
- Thread starter Tommy
- Start date
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r25sti
Well-known member
i just knocked mine out like any other bike wheel. through from the other side with a long punch. i fit oe bmw bearings as i didnt want to do it twice. 
stuartb
Well-known member
I had rears done on mine by dealer... didn't fancy drifting out with a punch due to Alu wheel... use your old bearing to drift back in m8...just make sure it's sqaure..a wee bit of timber door facing over the old bearing helps even an uneven mallet or hammer strike..
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
stuartb
Well-known member
Ffs.. nice grammar and spelling errors from yours truly !
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
r25sti
Well-known member
i also but the new bearings in the freezer over night and stand wheels by a radiator to warm. slide in nicely with the icy coating.
Good idea with the freezer!
stuartb
Well-known member
Valve seats are inserted in high end heads using liquid Nitrogen... the ultimate interference fit....
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
Stuart's Galaxy sent this !
stuartb
Well-known member
1. Put the new wheel bearings in the freezer the night before you attempt this job - they will go really easily into the wheel when you do this.
2. Lay the wheel/tyres across two thick planks of wood which are thick enough so that the brake disks or sprockets don't touch the lowest surface. The wheel and tyre is entirely supported on the thick planks of wood.
3. Get a long piece of drift (a really strong tough piece of metal) and try and slide it through the centre of the wheel, past the top bearing and try and feel the inside lip of the bearing on the lowest surface. Hit the drift firmly and move around the bearing tapping it firmly as you go around. Stop and raise the wheel to see if the bearing is starting to slide out on the other side. Tapping it firmly or even more firmly but evenly so that the bearing exits the wheel all the way round.
4. Save the removed bearing and spacer put them to one side.
5. Turn the wheel over and wrap some tape around the drift where it touches the inner of wheel where you have just removed the bearing to protect the inner edge of the wheel where the new bearing will finish, repeat tapping firmly on the opposite bearing.
6. Clean up the outer edges of the wheel where the bearings will sit with a toothbrush or some very fine wet and dry paper if necessary, but don't remove anything more than any light corrosion - be very gentle here on this surface.
7. Go and get the new bearings from the freezer, wrap one in a rag to keep it cold.
8. Insert spacer
9. Press the new wheel bearing up against the wheel and use the old bearing to sit on top of it and hit it gently all the way round and start driving the bearing into the wheel evenly all the way around. Only hit the old bearing on top of the new bearing
10. Use a piece of flat wood slightly bigger than the diameter of the bearing and start to hammer home the bearing evenly so that it goes into the wheel straight - DO NOT HOLD THE WOOD - you'll see why. Stop when the bearing is flush all the way around the wheel
11. Turn the wheel over and check that the spacer is inserted inside the wheel.
12. Repeat as above driving the second bearing into the wheel on the other side using the old bearing and the piece of wood.
2. Lay the wheel/tyres across two thick planks of wood which are thick enough so that the brake disks or sprockets don't touch the lowest surface. The wheel and tyre is entirely supported on the thick planks of wood.
3. Get a long piece of drift (a really strong tough piece of metal) and try and slide it through the centre of the wheel, past the top bearing and try and feel the inside lip of the bearing on the lowest surface. Hit the drift firmly and move around the bearing tapping it firmly as you go around. Stop and raise the wheel to see if the bearing is starting to slide out on the other side. Tapping it firmly or even more firmly but evenly so that the bearing exits the wheel all the way round.
4. Save the removed bearing and spacer put them to one side.
5. Turn the wheel over and wrap some tape around the drift where it touches the inner of wheel where you have just removed the bearing to protect the inner edge of the wheel where the new bearing will finish, repeat tapping firmly on the opposite bearing.
6. Clean up the outer edges of the wheel where the bearings will sit with a toothbrush or some very fine wet and dry paper if necessary, but don't remove anything more than any light corrosion - be very gentle here on this surface.
7. Go and get the new bearings from the freezer, wrap one in a rag to keep it cold.
8. Insert spacer
9. Press the new wheel bearing up against the wheel and use the old bearing to sit on top of it and hit it gently all the way round and start driving the bearing into the wheel evenly all the way around. Only hit the old bearing on top of the new bearing
10. Use a piece of flat wood slightly bigger than the diameter of the bearing and start to hammer home the bearing evenly so that it goes into the wheel straight - DO NOT HOLD THE WOOD - you'll see why. Stop when the bearing is flush all the way around the wheel
11. Turn the wheel over and check that the spacer is inserted inside the wheel.
12. Repeat as above driving the second bearing into the wheel on the other side using the old bearing and the piece of wood.
