brakes pulsing

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Tommy

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As above when I apply front brake I get a pulsing effect from the front end, if anyone could advise or had the same problem I would appreciate their input thanks Tommy.
 
I suspect your disk bobbins need cleaning. They are the circular mount points.

See this video (not mine).
https://youtu.be/mZ0cVRfw14A?t=20s

You need brake cleaner, stiff bush, tooth brush, wd40, drill (for speed), bolt, 2 washers, nut, spanner for nut.

Soak in brake cleaner, use the brushes on all of them before using the drill.
Take the bolt and a washer and pass them through a bobbin. Put the washer and nut on the back side. Do them up with the drill and spanner so they grip the bobbin.
Take off the spanner.
Now use the drill to slowly spin the bobbin and spray more brake cleaner. Spin the bobbin backwards and forwards. Brush and spray frequently.
Once it's freely moving, clean it up.
Place rag, paper towel over the disc and around the bobbin. Carefully spray a tiny amount of WD40 into the side of the bobbin, spin it with the drill.
Repeat on all bobbins.

It takes some time...
 
As above when I apply front brake I get a pulsing effect from the front end, if anyone could advise or had the same problem I would appreciate their input thanks Tommy.

Is this not just brake judder from warped discs?
 
Warped Brake Discs

Warped discs are reasonably common if they are subjected to constant track use; especially if you are extremely hard on the brakes. It's always worth cleaning the discs and bobbins first before assuming that they are warped to see if the brake pulsing disappears. If the problem still persists after cleaning, then check brake disc thickness and run out across the disc using a vernier caliper and dial gauge.
 
Re: Warped Brake Discs

Good point Ry and well put! My comment was more road focussed, but you're absolutely right about extra stresses & strains of track use.

Ive had seized bobbins on two bikes but they were Road/light track day use.
 
Used my standard discs on track and racing, never had to change a disc yet, but, do regularly clean the bobbins before they get to the seized state.
 
Thanks very much everyone for your replies, Alex thanks you were spot on cleaned as best I could in the time I had no more pulsing, will give another clean today, once again thanks everyone.
 
Used my standard discs on track and racing, never had to change a disc yet, but, do regularly clean the bobbins before they get to the seized state.
Curiously... how do you clean the bobbins or the gaps rather Bananaman....

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
The brakes on the cast wheels are 'semi floating'.
I'll be honest I'm not sure, having had a look on my 'cast style' Titax, I think you'd have to unbolt them, clean it all, bolt back together with new bolts and blue loctite.


- Alex
 
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I looked at mine yesterday as i was getting a "fast knock" when coming to a stop (20 mph and below). I gave them a wriggle and all seemed to be moving well enough but did give each one a little squirt of wd

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Good article that, I’m sure the idea of brake pad adhesion on the disc and not ‘warping’ is right. However, it all ends up with the same problem, which we can’t have! So pulsing at the lever is either warping or pad deposits on an overheated disc, what you gonna do??
I ‘cooked’ the lot at Snetterton, tried new pads, more trackdays, tried scrubbing off the deposits, all I ended up with was blue spots all over the place and a rapid lack of confidence in the front brakes. New discs instantly fixed it all. As the article says, skimming won’t help, so what you gonna do? New discs.
The only solution is to choose pads that suit the conditions imo. The OEM are great for 90% of the time, but if you’re exploring the potential of the rest of the braking system, they fkup your discs. When that happens, you’ll need new discs.
 
Good article that, I’m sure the idea of brake pad adhesion on the disc and not ‘warping’ is right. However, it all ends up with the same problem, which we can’t have! So pulsing at the lever is either warping or pad deposits on an overheated disc, what you gonna do??
I ‘cooked’ the lot at Snetterton, tried new pads, more trackdays, tried scrubbing off the deposits, all I ended up with was blue spots all over the place and a rapid lack of confidence in the front brakes. New discs instantly fixed it all. As the article says, skimming won’t help, so what you gonna do? New discs.
The only solution is to choose pads that suit the conditions imo. The OEM are great for 90% of the time, but if you’re exploring the potential of the rest of the braking system, they fkup your discs. When that happens, you’ll need new discs.

As Tommy will attest, 90% of brake lever judder issues on BIKE brakes is the bobbins. Floating discs need regular care.
 
As Tommy will attest, 90% of brake lever judder issues on BIKE brakes is the bobbins. Floating discs need regular care.
Yes but the other 10% require more radical solutions. Bobbins are not a fix all...
 
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