2016 caliper pistons stuck?

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beem

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Was just at my buddies (2016-mod with 22000km) where we found that the left side caliper had been grinded by the brakedisc and was worn down, because of his piston on the outer side was stuck. We found this by inspecting with a flashlight from the front. He took it off to see if that was the case, and yes it was. The piston did not move and the brakepad was kind of on the inside of the caliper not touching the disc at all.

He then told me that he tought he had noticed an decrease in the braking effect on the track some weeks back.

Then I just bought myself a 2016-mod too with 12000 km, 3 days ago(YIPPIII!), and when I inspect mine with a flashlight from the front, it looks to be the case on my left side caliper as well?!? Its very close to the disc on my left caliper outside, but not touching just yet.

What about other s1000rr owners? Anybody noticed this? Please let me know, and share any tip you got.
 
I do clean my calipers before track event. For the brakes to work correct the pistons must be cleaned regularly.
 
Hi Beem, newly registered members are asked to post in the welcome section before we can make them standard members. If you wish to post photographs directly to the site then we require you to sign on as a Premier Member and get that + other benefits.

It does sound like your wheel is in backwards...ABS ring should be clutch side. Calipers should be placed over the discs, loosely bolted down, then you should apply the brakes to push the pistons out evenly. Once complete torque up the calipers.
 
Calipers should be placed over the discs, loosely bolted down, then you should apply the brakes to push the pistons out evenly. Once complete torque up the calipers.

I have not heard of doing that before. Does it actually make a difference?
 
I noticed there is a slight difference in caliper travel on the side with the ABS ring. The thickness of ABS ring means that disk doesn't sit symmetrically in middle of the caliper so one caliper travels more even with new pads.
 
I have not heard of doing that before. Does it actually make a difference?
I think it does make sure the calipers are perfectly aligned. Probably more of an issue on bikes/calipers without dowel locators... But even with it seems to make a diff

- Alex
 
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I dont get it sorry.

Lets just say that your method makes the caliper line up more accurately than it does when mounted on the bottom of the fork legs, so the disc is exactly central. When the pads are used they stay within a mm or so of the disc when released. I dont understand what difference it would make to braking if the caliper was not exactly central, one side of pads would be extended a little more from the caliper than the other, but the braking pressure would be the same on both sides (on the basis that nothing was sticky/seized)? No?
 
Was just at my buddies (2016-mod with 22000km) where we found that the left side caliper had been grinded by the brakedisc and was worn down, because of his piston on the outer side was stuck. We found this by inspecting with a flashlight from the front. He took it off to see if that was the case, and yes it was. The piston did not move and the brakepad was kind of on the inside of the caliper not touching the disc at all.

He then told me that he tought he had noticed an decrease in the braking effect on the track some weeks back.

Then I just bought myself a 2016-mod too with 12000 km, 3 days ago(YIPPIII!), and when I inspect mine with a flashlight from the front, it looks to be the case on my left side caliper as well?!? Its very close to the disc on my left caliper outside, but not touching just yet.

What about other s1000rr owners? Anybody noticed this? Please let me know, and share any tip you got.

Thanks for all your answers, thats a lot of tip right there! :fat:
My friend with the problem has solved it now. He took it too another mc mechanic, and they found that the first mc mechanic store (MC Oslo) which serviced the bike, filled the brakefluid-container/researvoir way up over max, actually to the top(!:nightmare:), which left no space for the fluid to travel and created a vacuum inside one of the stamps (the stuck one), or something like that. They apparantly are infamous for doing bad service which creates more problems than they fix.. so they just took out some brakefluid which then solved the problem! Nice, fast and cheap.
 
Calipers

I have not heard of doing that before.

I've never heard of that either. Once I've put the calipers back on I just torque everything up to specification; pump the lever to seat the pads and that's it. After countless wheel changes I've never had an issue with uneven pad wear. I also clean my brake calipers regularly.
 
I have to agree with the above...I've been on a few brake courses with Lucas Girling in my previous life, at no time were we advised to do anything other than mount the caliper correctly and torque up the fasteners to spec etc...I can't think what difference any other method would make...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
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If calipers are located on dowels then no need to apply brake while torquing up the bolts, BUT if calipers are only secured with bolt and NO dowel then applying brakes while tightening everything up means calipers are held in place and in line with the pads/pistons.

Been doing this for years, adds seconds to the job but at least means I know everything is in line, I'd rather be a belt and braces person when it comes to brakes that just hope its all correctly aligned
 
Who said anything about under braking being the only consideration.

I've felt a difference I know it, say no as much as you like, wont change my experience.

- Alex
 
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