Bike won't start, possibly cant read the key

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eneasz

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Apologies, I've searched but I couldn't anything. I went for a ride today, stopped for a coffee and stopped the engine using kill switch rather than key. When I came back and put the key in the ignition and turned it on, I could not hear factory alarm disarming and alarm red light was still blinking, starter would not kick in when I tried to start the bike. Few attempts with clutch gear or neutral stand off/on but nothing. The key turned in the ignition would power the dashboard and the lights come on but only alarm gets triggered when I move the bike, it never gets disarmed. I've disconnected the battery and alarm went off, connected it back and tried again, still was not able to disarm alarm and start the bike. I've found some car factory alarm advice and have switched the ignition on, and disconnected battery waited 15 minutes and when I connected battery back on I was able to start up bike, without killing the engine I've put all back and went back home straight away. When I stopped at home same thing happened. I could not start up bike again, I was able to disarm the alarm using remote control now which I left at home but it would not turn the starter up. I have unplugged the alarm completely and still not able to start.
I also tried second key, same, the ignition turned enabled lights on dashboard but alarm is not getting disarmed which I think is caused by something not being able to read the key which is why immobiliser doesn't allow me to fire up the bike.
Has anyone had similar problem?

I was thinking about start stop switch but since I see no reaction from alarm to auto disarm when ignition is turned on (unless it got stucked on kill and switching switch doesn't change this) I suspect it must be something to do with reading the key but I might be wrong. Any idea?
Can I reprogram keys or perform some reset at home?
 
Sounds more like the kill switch HAS went unserviceable, not uncommon if left in extreme heat or wet conditions on some bikes. Dealers were replacing switchgear as a good will gesture if confirmed.

JimmyMac
 
Sounds more like the kill switch HAS went unserviceable, not uncommon if left in extreme heat or wet conditions on some bikes. Dealers were replacing switchgear as a good will gesture if confirmed.

JimmyMac
Thanks JimmyMac, I got some switch cluster replaced few years ago as a part of service action by BMW, can't remember which one ... could be that one :( Wonder if they would do it again.
 
Thanks JimmyMac, I got some switch cluster replaced few years ago as a part of service action by BMW, can't remember which one ... could be that one :( Wonder if they would do it again.

Got to worth asking, all parts supplied and fitted by BMW come with guarantee, but I can't remember for how long. Maybe Tim from Lind could tell you.

JimmyMac
 
If I don't use the kil switch to stop the engine will it still refuse to start when it get hot?
 
The kill switch is a ?push to break? circuit meaning that it?s constantly ?making? a circuit and when you push it it breaks. This means that if the circuit in your switchgear fails it could break the kill switch circuit without any external input (ie pressing the switch)

Are there no warning lights or codes on the dash? EWS maybe?

I don?t think the kill switch has anything to do with the immobiliser. (I?m not certain because I?ve never checked) The antenna ?reads? the key only once when the ignition is first turned on, after this you can (in theory) bypass the ignition and remove the key and the bike will stay mobilised until the ignition is cycled.


What year is your bike?

When it?s not working does pressing the kill switch affect the dash at all?
 
Thanks Stephen for your input, I do not have any warning lights and I got convinced by previous responses that maybe it could be a kill switch. I have contacted BMW if they could replace it on my S1000rr 2011 with 4K miles on and last service done with 3K at BMW dealership in 2013 where LHS switch cluster was replaced but they seem not be willing to fix it. Also my front light has small cracks, they just look like a poor quality material being desintegrated. The bike has spent few years in the garage under the cover and there is no reason for such problems, my confidence in BMW goes well down and seems like turn back to JAPS is the right move
 
So BMW last saw the bike 5 years ago and you want them to do everything gratis? LOL
The small cracks are from heat so you may have the wrong bulb in the headlight / the headlights haven't seen enough airflow to keep them cool, for instance if lens covers have been used.

But anyway enjoy your new JAPS bike, not heard of the brand but I'm sure it will be great.
 
BMW Service

...last service done with 3K at BMW dealership in 2013...

I?m not surprised in the slightest that BMW won?t entertain fixing the bike under warranty if they haven?t seen it in 5 years.
 
I understand not seeing a bike for 5 years is your concern, mine is that bike has not been touch in 5 years and fals apart , I understand in your opinion is normal and it should continue failing and breaking just by being on display but this is not something I'm accepting from a flagship product. Regarding cracks on light, they were not there few years back, bike runs standard light, no covers .... In fact I should mention it has not been used during the time cracks appeared. I do not think this should have happened to the flagship model claiming to be build to the highest standard but this is only mine opinion.
Just to summaries, seems like it's none concern the bike has 4K miles and plastics are cracking because bike is 7 years old and everyone agrees that after having whole list of people who experienced same fault but they did same millage as me in 1 year therefore they had guarantee it was not ok for them to have faulty switch free but it is ok to charge me ?164 + VAT because I had never time to use it?

I must say if it was something unusual, non looking like factory fault I would say not a word but this is not the case which is why I complaint. I would expect rubbers to go off than nearly new switch that was only used few times.

Anyways, thank you everyone for your input help and opinions.
 
Entropy affects everything. and everything will fail over time. I think BMW would have been more helpful if it'd been serviced by them on a regular basis (used or not) so they could demonstrate some income and loyalty. Brake fluid goes off over time, petrol breaks down and goes thick and gloopy, oil deteriorates ... As you say, rubbers degrade, greased joints dry up, solder joints fail & crack and bolts / screws work themselves loose unless they're kept in a temperature controlled environment.

At the end of the day, they (BMW) don't offer a lifetime warranty on their bikes at the point of sale without caveats as to how they're maintained and some costs incurred. I'd be absolutely stunned if any other bike company would either. Listen to some of the horror stories regarding Aprillia RSV4's and dropped valves and warranty work - even when it's in warranty! :eek: I do think that choosing any other bike just because you've got a very small repair cost is a knee-jerk reaction, but I know how you feel.
 
Yep agree with that, with the best will in the world any bike may have some issues if it's not been touched for 5 years and no-one, including the Japanese manufacturers are going to provide warranty cover for a 7 year old bike, although Wheel's in Pboro provide lifetime cover for all new bikes they sell including Aprilias(!) but I'm sure there'll be some small print in there....
 
I understand not seeing a bike for 5 years is your concern, mine is that bike has not been touch in 5 years and fals apart .
Hey Damion, has it really been 5 years? Apart from the Bike how is everything going? You up for a ride sometime if you get your bike sorted ??

Best Regards

Phil
 
@ALL

Just had a look at the video I've recorded and you can see alarm/immobiliser light being on until I disarm it with remote, normally it should be disarmed by the key. Maybe .... it's not this switch?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GJq9B9PAUwXkZZsK7

Normally the alarm should be disarm by the key, do you still think it's kill switch?

@Phil
Hey Phil ! Yes 5 years, incredible. So good to see you here.
I've been a bit busy as you can see but I'm committed to do some riding at least twice a month :D Booked service for 31st. Was thinking about going out this weekend but as someone said even if I don't use the switch it may fail putting me into trouble :(
Do you still have same number? Let's stay in touch.
 
I?ve just watched your video.

That seems a bizarre fault, maybe it?s the alarm unit at fault.

You are correct, when you turn on the ignition and the key is read the alarm should auto disarm. But the alarm is just an alarm, the immobiliser is part of the bmsk unit (ecu) and works independently of the alarm.

Have you tried unplugging the alarm to see if the issue continues?
 
I?ve just been working on an s1000rr and while I had it in I tried the ignition with the kill switch pressed. The alarm didn?t disarm until the switch was set to run! I didn?t know it worked like that, you learn something new every day haha.

So it may just be your switch gear at fault.
 
Still to early to confirm, but since kill switch was suggested here I stopped using it and so far all works. I'm going to give it few more tests to confirm it works when I don't touch it. Once I can prove this I'll make a number of kill switch stops and will see if fault randomly re-appear. Than I'll pay for a very expensive on/off switch :D

Still only rode it once ... so it could be a pure luck nothing failed.
Thanks everyone, I'll update this topic when I come to some conclusion.
 
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