QS upshift issue - suggested checklist?

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MrSmooth

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Morning folks,

I?ve searched the forum but found some posts that were useful, but wanted to ask a question on here?

2018 S1K RR with 1400 miles and 700 miles since the first oil dealer service and checks. Within the last 150 miles I have been experiencing upshift QS issues. Just not sure if it is me or not being too timid on the QS upshift. Downshifts with the QS are fine from any revs.

Occasionally when the engine is warm and I have been riding for more than 30 minutes or so in 3rd or 4th gear at about 8-12K revs under hard acceleration the QS doesn?t upshift properly and stays in the same gear which is scarey as she feels like she wants to launch me over the front of the bars. It upshifts fine at lower revs and when not accelerating too hard.

It is still under warranty, I?m happy to take it to the main dealer but it can be up to 4 weeks at present to get a service slot.

Qu. Am I being too timid with my foot movement on the upshifts?
I am assuming it will only engage one gear at a time on the upshift and cannot block shift up say 2 gears on one foot movement?

Is there a checklist of things to check first as a post elsewhere on this forum that someone can refer me too?
Eg Chain tensioned correctly?
Eg Clutch cable tensioned correctly?

Thanks in advance

Steve aka Mr Smooth
 
Hi, you need to make a positive movement with your foot but you certainly don't need to boot it through. The QS is less happy shifting at constant revs rather than increasing revs where it should just snick through. A correctly adjusted chain helps but unless its tight or hanging on the floor it won't make that much difference. Quite a few riders have initial issues using quickshifters (regardless of bike make) until they get used to it. I suspect its just a question of practice but why not book it into the dealers now so you've secured a slot just in case something does need addressing.
 
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Hi Steve, I had identical issue going from 5th to 6th when my HP4 was a few weeks old.
Pretty sure it was just bedding in or me getting used to it but it sure was frightening almost chucked over the bars at full revs in 5th. Disappeared without any adjustment and has been OK for the next 18k miles.

As Mac says be positive with the upshift but let the dealer look at it, they checked mine and gave it the all clear, good for piece of mind.

JimmyMac
 
They do call it shift assist, not a full qs.

You have to be positive.

They can go out of sync and need recoding, you can do some resyncing on the paddock stand, running it for 10+ seconds in each gear.

Chain slack makes a big difference, OEM chains can stretch quite a bit at first. Lift the bottom the chain behind the rearset. Top of the chain run should move when the bottom gets within 2cm of the swing arm.

- Alex
 
Thanks everyone.

I did the battery disconnect / run it through clutch gear changes up and down for 10 seconds in each gear and then repeated with clutchless changes.

I was more positive with the QS upshifts on my ride this evening, I got an affinity for how much movement of the gear lever was required to engage the gears when I shifted them earlier by hand when it was on the paddock stand.

It didn’t repeat the gear change hesitations from before, however I’ve lost a littlest trust in the system and am currently using the clutch lever with hard acceleration in gears when I get above 12K revs. More riding will improve my confidence levels.

@alex I forgot to do the chain tension test you mentioned. I will do it this weekend. That was stupid of me.
 
Shift Assist

...currently using the clutch lever with hard acceleration in gears when I get above 12K revs.

You shouldn't need to use the clutch at all and the system works better when shifting up through the gears in a higher rev range.
 
Ive had this happen a few times on me aswell. Quite a scary feeling. Especially as it continues to accelerate after not shifting.
Might give mines the calibration.
 
Sounds like your not letting the leaver return to resting position after the previous gear change, I had this problem and changing my footwork solved it.
 
I've had a similar issue with mine. From new to 26K miles its been the same. Only ever in 4th. It sometimes refuses to shift up from 4th to 5th, but the power is cut. I've never managed to pin point what has caused it (revs, load, temp, chain). Its only very intermittent so no chance of a dealer finding it. I've just learned to live with it. I'm guessing there is something in the box which prevents a smooth shift. All the other gears are fine.
 
Sounds like your not letting the leaver return to resting position after the previous gear change, I had this problem and changing my footwork solved it.

This seems like a feaseable solution
 
Okay, to polish this thread off. 2018 bike, the problem I occasionally encountered was a long cut-out delay and no up shift in the gear when accelerating hard at above 8K revs usually in 3rd, 4th & 5th gears with the QS and without the clutch. I was thrown forward violently at speed as the bike stayed in the same gear.... very scary.

After checking the chain tension to be correct - I installed LightSpeed chain adjusters, then disconnecting the battery and running it on the paddock stand with clutch gear changes all the way up to 6th up and back down to 1st gear ensuring that the bike spent 10 seconds in each gear and then repeated the same exercise with clutch-less changes -to retrain the QS worked wonders.

Also I read elsewhere on this forum to reduce the throttle input slightly at the point of using the QS, still positive throttle but not hard open throttle , also works a treat on the road. Result? I haven't had a repeat of the missed gear incident in over 1000 miles.

IMO it wasn't about the a really positive shift using the foot lever or letting the foot lever return to the normal position between shifts as I always ride on the balls of my feet between gear changes. But thanks to everyone for the contributions made.
 
Hi, from my experience, here are the things that affect clean shifts up and down. higher in the list, more effect.

1. Clutch cable freeplay. Even though you're not using the clutch, the micro switches will come into effect. If your play is more than 1mm cold it thinks you've pulled the clutch. Especially prevalent when running the bike in because the cable, clutch parts are bedding in.
2. Toe not clearing lever.... it won't give you the next gear. Especially prevalent when wheeling and going for the next gear. All to easy not to clear lever. Just watch the MotoGP, WSB onboard, they all swing their foot out. All QS are the same.
3. Being slow or lazy with the shift. Firm and fast, gets a firm and fast change.
4. Play in lever linkages or not at 90's to each other.
5. It is worth relearning the gearbox. i.e over 10s in each gear whilst stationary. I actually found if I shifted quicker whist teaching it, it gave a quicker shift afterwards. The gearbox isn't learning all the time as it only goes into learning mode if the front wheel isn't rotating. Think VW emmisons cheat. If these set of circumstances are met go into learning mode.
 
My friend had a similar issue with his 17 plate bike, we found it was the clutch switch, to much slack in his lever allowed the wind to slightly push it back and activate the clutch switch so it would let the quickshifter work! Hope that makes sense!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
My friend had a similar issue with his 17 plate bike, we found it was the clutch switch, to much slack in his lever allowed the wind to slightly push it back and activate the clutch switch so it would let the quickshifter work! Hope that makes sense!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When people come and see us with QS issues (i.e. not working at high speed etc) it is 99% of the time this exact issue. Take a bit more slack out of the cable, job jobbed.

It should be between 1/2 inch to an inch of travel at the end of the lever (the ball as I call it).
 
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