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bmwbadboy

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Had 3rd day at Donny yesterday on 2016 model and thought to share/ask some random questions.

Managed to drop my lap time from 1:49 to 1:43, thanks to couple of tips from experienced riders.

I love Dunlop D212 rear, but it's pain in the ass to get the right settings right. It just asks to go either hot or cold tear if you're off on rear shock or pressure.

Start of the day was cold, with ambient temp going to around 22-23C towards 2pm. I started from 25psi, went down to ~22psi. Still managed to get a slight hot tear.
At this stage, I think I need to re-think/re-adjust my rear shock settings. Just need to figure out how exactly.

random things that I noticed:

1. engine brake in slick mode is massive. I think I wish I could control it and have it set to be less.
2. ORO discs/Ferodo XRAC work great
3. it's extremely helpful when a skillful rider explains you lines/throttle control upfront
 
May RapidBike Race has adjusted engine braking setting fwiw, as set up by HMRacing.

1:43 is very quick, impressed.



- Alex
 
May RapidBike Race has adjusted engine braking setting fwiw, as set up by HMRacing.

1:43 is very quick, impressed.

- Alex

RapidBike Race is arriving on Saturday from the US....

I thought quick is <1:40.
 
Slick mode, or the slick engine setting within User mode, is the least amount of engine breaking possible on an RR.
To my knowledge the only way to reduce it further is via an RCK3 or with a RapidBike Race module as Alex says
 
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Slick mode, or the slick engine setting within User mode, is the least amount of engine breaking possible on an RR.
To my knowledge the only way to reduce it further is via an RCK3 or with a RapidBike Race module as Alex says

I found that engine braking is too hard at:

- mclean's
- melbourne hairpin
- goddards

Or, I just need to account for it when braking into the turn...
 
Hope you got a good deal. We have a 20% off deal with Performance Parts Ltd

- Alex

I had S1000forum US discount + UK VAT discount :) hard to beat that.

But yes, I'm keeping in mind sponsors of this forum.
 
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Just finished another day at Donny.

All in all, it's the same story, my rear gets cold tear as soon as try to push it. Drop down lap times to 1.42 mark this time around.

So, it sounds a bit extravagant but this time I took a remote session with Dave Moss via skype.
Basically whats happening, rear doesnt get enough heat because it doesnt stay on track long enough. We're trying to alter suspension settings to allow rear to stay on track more.

I must say stock suspension on 2016 model is nowhere near suitable for fast track riding, even for the golden weight of 85-90kg guy like me.

This is how rear looks after 7 sessions:
IMG_20180712_143911.jpg


This is Dunlop medium D212 GP racer pro. 21psi whole day after warmers, 24psi off track.
 
Similar times to me, used to have this problem, tried everything to sort it. Changed to v02's and problem disappeared. + much better longevity
 
Dunlop

I have never gotten along with Dunlop race tyres either. They work really well for some but I personally dislike them.
 
Re: Dunlop

I have never gotten along with Dunlop race tyres either. They work really well for some but I personally dislike them.
So the main message from Dave is:

Code:
We have a cold tear which is caused by not enough weight being on the rear tire.

What was done so far:

- added 7 turns on front preload (zip tie sits firm at 20mm)
- front comp 3, reb 1
- rear comp 4, reb 4
- pressure 20psi off warmers

It looks like right side started to clear up, I'm pleased.

b815b481c22188a7f07a19ff35a743ce.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 
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