Changing tyres

I've had lots of hassle over recent months with punctures and worn out tyres, thus: wait to drop off the bike, drop off the bike, wait days for the fix, pay them, pick up the bike, etc. To date I've gone with the philosophy that if I'm whizzing around at speed, it's probably best to let an experienced mechanic make sure my bike is safe. However, tyres are beginning to be a real PITA for me. For example, I'd like to have a set of Road Pilots for touring and softer ones for, err... not touring. I also like the sound of chopping back and forth that some of you lot do.
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I've been fixing bicycles since I was a boy and, from what I read and watch, reckon I could learn to change my SKRR tyres with the right equipment.
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Question1: What tools do I need? I've got paddock stands but nothing else, other than the usual array of DIY house tools that I'm sure are inappropriate. Over the years I've noticed that some garages add stick-on weights, I presume to balance the wheels as on cars. Can't remember if that's the case at the mo (guess where the effing bike is right now). Do any of you do that?
Question2: How much for a second set of wheels, bearing in mind that I won't want to swap discs or sprockets.

I'd go with the wheels, spare cast can be had for ?800 w/all the bits and they are still worth something when you want to sell up.

alex said:

I'd go with the wheels, spare cast can be had for ?800 w/all the bits and they are still worth something when you want to sell up.

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Thanks Alex. Is that what you do? A much reduced set of tools I presume? H

I have 2 sets of wheels, but, I tend to stick the bike up on paddock stands, whip the wheels out, stick them in the car, drive to FWR as they are 5 mins from my door and have them fit what I need.

- Alex

What tools do I need to do that?

Huge said:

What tools do I need to do that?

Click to expand...

To take off the wheels?

Torque wrench
Mallet
34mm socket for rear nut
24mm front axle removal tool
socket + hex socket for calipper bolts and clamping bolts on forks

That's about it.


I agree with Alex, just find a local shop (maybe even car shop) that can change tires on loose wheels. That's the best option.

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Rear:
1/2" torque wrench capable of well over the 100nm the rear nut needs.
34mm 1/2" socket.
T25 torx to release the rear brake cable.
Brake cleaner and blue roll paper towel to clean the axle.
Motul Axle grease to smear on axle when refitting.
Latex or similar gloves.
Plastic hammer helps move the axle in and out.

Front:
24mm 1/2" allen/hex socket for front axle
T30 or T40 for the RHS (throttle) pinch bolts.
10mm socket/ratchet for calipers.
Every bolt should be torqued correctly. Can use a smaller 3/8's t-wrench on calipers and pinch bolts.
Zip ties to hold the brake calipers out of the way, or a wire coat hanger.
Clean and Grease axle as above.

- Alex

Thanks 3B.
I've got a plastic covered mallet!
Off to Halfords for the rest, I s'pose.
Whoop whoop.

I was in the same camp as you, relying on other people to change wheels over so I read up and did it myself.
First time I tried it was look , stop,check repeat lol. Think it took me about 2 hours which is now down to 40 minutes after a few tries!
I doubt very much that the local tyre company would torque anything to the specific amount either so I know that they are when I do it.

Huge said:

Thanks 3B.
I've got a plastic covered mallet!
Off to Halfords for the rest, I s'pose.
Whoop whoop.

Click to expand...

Halfords torque wrenches are what I use, I had to buy both to cover all settings.

Alex, most detailed and useful.
Loupe, good encouragement.
Thanks guys

I have the two sets of wheels option; one set with road-touring tyres and another set with a more sporty option for trackdays. Fairly easy job to change wheels with a bit of practise. If I change the wheels I know that the bolts are all torqued correctly.
If you buy second hand wheels, just check that you use the correct spacers for your bike. The wheels are all the same but spacers on gen 1s are different.

Flyingscotsman said:

I have the two sets of wheels option; one set with road-touring tyres and another set with a more sporty option for trackdays. Fairly easy job to change wheels with a bit of practise. If I change the wheels I know that the bolts are all torqued correctly. If you buy second hand wheels, just check that you use the correct spacers for your bike. The wheels are all the same but spacers on gen 1s are different.

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Thanks Rob. Seems I'm slow on the uptake...

Changing tyres yourself can be done but it?s a pain the arse when it comes to balancing wheels and trying not to damage the rim.

best options are buy a spare set of wheels and have the tyres fitted that you require for touring.

or take wheels off yourself and go to the nearest place that can swap tyres over.

It is satisfying fitting your wheels instead of a spanner monkey, knowing its done right. Couple of years back had my tyres changed by a local ‘go to’ bike tyre place only to find the front pinch bolts were finger tight when I checked them at home.

Get a full socket set and the two wrenches so you can then do every job on the bike should you want to.

I fully agree with the consensus that getting tyres professionally fitted to loose rims is the way to go. Plus its so much cooler rocking up with wheels in the boot instead of riding up and not having a scooby do whats going on .

I do the lot in regards to tyre changing, even do mates bikes , only last week did old Triumph with tubes:smug:! I have proper bead breaker and balancer along with the weights etc. Got compressor and use pucker tyre soap , there must be something wrong with me as I quite enjoy doing it :tongue-new:

I change my own bike tyres. I buy my tyres from black circles then fit and balance them myself. I made a sturdy wheel support out of wood, covered in carpet to protect the wheels and I use this to support the wheel while breaking the bead and then remove the tyre using professional tyre paste and a modified version of the zip tie method. Tyres really do go on and come off very easily by hand and with no tools. I then balance the wheel using a home made static balance and lead balance weights - not the crappy steel ones that are so common these days!! . . . . I?m an anorak - can?t help it but I?m also retired and have plenty of time to waste!!

Interesting. How do you break the bead? Can you describe the zip tie method?

My two bobs worth about bead breaking.

I had a couple of Pilot Power 2CTs fitted around 4/5 years ago on my C1 10R.... BRC motorcycles Muir of Ord near Dingwall...they broke the beads using a spade...one guy holding the spade and the second would jump on the top of the blade bit...one jump was all it took..lol....

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Lol Sounds about right! The bead breakers I've seen look like significant force needs to be applied.