What does the micro-switch under the clutch lever do?

Fitted some nicer levers this morning but managed to ping the metal plate that makes the switch on the clutch into the depths of the bike.

I aint going to find it and with a lack of workshop manual I phoned the dealer to find out what it does? He wasn't sure? I can start the bike with clutch in or out, if you put it in gear with the side stand down, it still cuts out.

Does it stop you starting the bike in gear without the clutch pulled in?

Is it a problem that I now do not have it working?

Appreciate any genuine knowledge! Cheers

I think it has somwthing to do with the quick shifter.

Yes,it is needed for the quickshifter-DO NOT use the shifter,use the clutch until you get it sorted or you will damage the gearbox.

I did wonder that but the dealer said not.

I wondered if it disconnected the quickshifter so that you didn't get a spark cut when changing gear using the clutch.

Anyone got a workshop manual?

baz link=topic=1284.msg11984#msg11984 date=1345197217 said:

Yes,it is needed for the quickshifter-DO NOT use the shifter,use the clutch until you get it sorted or you will damage the gearbox.

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Can you explain why mate?

MOz link=topic=1284.msg11986#msg11986 date=1345197364 said:

baz link=topic=1284.msg11984#msg11984 date=1345197217 said:

Yes,it is needed for the quickshifter-DO NOT use the shifter,use the clutch until you get it sorted or you will damage the gearbox.

Click to expand...

Can you explain why mate?

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Sounds like what he's saying is the switch is the ECU's way of knowing the clutch is pulled. I can't imagine why this would mean you couldn't use the quickshifter, as it's going to work with the clutch engaged, it's only when you pull the lever (and activate the switch) that it'd bypass.

When you shift modes, you need to pull the clutch, so that'd be another reason the ECU needs to see clutch state. And I have started it before in gear with the clutch in, so that'll be another use.

Apart from various other functions,quite simply without the switch the ecu thinks the clutch is pulled and will not allow the quickshifter to function.You can still do clutchless shifts but you must back off the throttle slightly.
This is a common problem when fitting aftermarket levers as the clutch switch needs to be aligned correctly.Basically,when fitted you should hear a click from the microswitch when the lever is pulled to about 30mm from the bar.No click-no quickshifter-missed gears!

Apologies for this but surely with the pressure plate missing from behind the clutch lever the switch is not made therefore the ECU knows the clutch is engaged (lever out) therefore the quickshifter should work properly as everything is where it should be? That switch is only activated when the clutch lever is pulled in?

I'm very dubious. A couple of calls to the dealer and he's saying 100% confident that that switch has nothing to do with the quickshifter at all?

The changing of modes sounds a much better explanation.

Who's right?

If the switch is still there, I'd say that even in the case that it does effect the QS, there's no reason to avoid using it - as the switch will just permanently be open. The state that would allow the QS to work anyway.

I was also under the impression that this was something to do with the QS
I had mine replaced last week because the little switch had failed , the outputs for this failure were it wouldnt change gear with the QS and it kept cutting out the engine intermittently .
they replaced it and the QS (£324)
I am not 100% certain it was this switch they replaced , this is an assumption on my part :

Did it solve your problem Bob?

I'm struggling to understand how such a minor piece / switch can be so important.

It's pissing it down here and despite running the bike on the paddock stands I can't tell if the QS is working. It's FUCKING INFURIATING.

Beemer think the plate comes with the clutch lever. £75 fuckig quid

OK. Discovered that with the clutch lever out the switch is made (pushed in). that switch has to be pushed in for the QS to work. Without it, trying clutchless changes didn't work. The shift lever was solid and I weren't forcing it. I still have the dilemma as to replacing the strip of metal that makes the switch. My local dealer says that their parts lists and diagrams aren't clear so he has ordered a bit that costs 38p. I'm hoping that is a spare metal strip. Price suggests that's about right but knowing my luck today it won't be. An oem lever (that he says definately comes with said metal spring strip) is £68 + VAT or he'll do me a set of HP levers for £268. The problem is, it's not clear if they require the metal spring strip to work.

Bad day. Thanks to Baz for his wisdom. Shame the dealer's knowledge wasn't at the same level.

Wow, every day's a school day - so they designed it in such a way that the switch is pressed when the clutch is at rest? Seems odd, but I'm sure there's a reason.

Glad you got a definitive answer.

MOz link=topic=1284.msg11997#msg11997 date=1345210476 said:

An oem lever (that he says definately comes with said metal spring strip) is £68 + VAT or he'll do me a set of HP levers for £268. The problem is, it's not clear if they require the metal spring strip to work.

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Why would the HP levers not require the metal spring to work?

Sorry,I should have said that.The clutch switch needs to be depressed for the quickshifter to operate.Without the tag it is open.
Assuming it was the spring steel lever you lost then that is NOT supplied with a new lever.Hopefully,the part they have ordered is correct(price sounds about right!),although they could be getting the plastic lever on the underside of the clutch lever!
As previously stated,when you fit the new one,make sure the lever clicks at the correct point.You may need to either move the switch slightly on its two mounting screws or bend the spring tag slightly-usually to ensure the switch is depressed.If it doesn't click at that point,the quickshifter will malfunction.

Just had a quick look on the realoem site-the picture shows the clutch switch and spring tag as a single item-so it looks like you need the whole clutch switch!

I've had a look at this too but it isn't obvious to be honest. That said, it should be an integral part of the switch (ie attached somehow) so I think it might be worth ordering one and seeing how it works out.

Again, thanks for the link Baz.

Notice my revs rise when lever is let out at certain point about the bite, anything to do with this?

Can't say I've ever noticed but entirely possible.
Try pulling the lever until it clicks,if it is about the same place it obviously is!

Oh well. I pick up an entire new switch tomorrow. Fingers crossed it has all I need. I'm proper fucked off about all of this tbh. A real downer.

I've just seen the size of the screws that holds the micro switch in place too. A torq bit but fucking tiny. I don't have a torq bit that small and tracking down the correct size is going to be a nightmare.

Can anyone help and suggest somewhere I can get a torq bit or key that small over the shelf nice and quick. I'll be running my duck tape fix for sometime otherwise