Winter lay up.

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pauly

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My 2013 bike has been on a stand in the garage for around 5 months. I'd like to spin the engine over on the starter for a few seconds to distribute the oil before firing it up. So what fuse should I pull? I know some will say just fire it up, but I'd be happier doing it my way.
 
Oil

You would be far better off just changing the oil and then turning the engine on.
 
The garage is dry, and the oil hasn't done many miles. If there's a fuse for the fuel pump I'd rather pull that.
 
I was trying to fin the diagram the other day, I have the Haynes manual but its in the garage (1/2 mile away)
 
According to the 2017 Manual P.214. None of the fuses are soley for the fuel so it's more likely that you'd have to remove and disconnect the fuel tank/pump directly to do what you want.

I do believe that the bike will be perfectly ok if you don't go through this process though. Modern synthetic oils start protecting very quickly.
 
Not exactly the same but what I do with my Impreza track car and the wife’s wrx Wagon after changing the oil is disconnect the crankshaft position sensor, crank it maybe 5 times or so to distribute the oil then connect back up and start normally.
 
We ran a Dry Sumped Mini quite a few years back and had to remove the plugs then turn it over to get the oil pressure up before starting the engine, Bit of a flaff on your S1000RR.

I would stand the bike up and do short bursts on the starter, it might not fire up straight away anyway so give it a go.

Good luck.
 
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Probably not the same as a Blade but the 09 Blade I had would turn over with the kill switch in the off position but wouldn't fire up.
 
I would stand the bike up and do short bursts on the starter, it might not fire up straight away anyway so give it a go.

Good luck.

Pretty much what I've always done with previous bikes. I also used to start them monthly and bring the water temp up, but some say that's wrong.
 
Pretty much what I've always done with previous bikes. I also used to start them monthly and bring the water temp up, but some say that's wrong.
Heating and cooling sucks in moisture laden air. So the exhaust ends up wet on the inside with a condensate build up. The condensate is likely to get into the engine and sit on the oil.

When warming up an engine the oil temp needs to get above and stay above 100 degrees C to boil off impurities for a good while, just idling in the garage is not likely to achieve this. (Not to be confused with water temp)

So the 'best' thing to do is leave it until you are ready to go for a long ride. To really get it up to temp and for long enough to clear out any condensation.

Obviously, by changing the oil before running, half the job is done through that.

- Alex
 
I've garaged this bike from new, in a garage attached to my house. Never started it over winter. It hasn't had condensation on it, or in the sight glass for the oil. My previous bike was kept in a wooden shed, that bike used to regularly get soaked in condensation over winter. I'm not really over thinking this, if it's a 5 minute job to isolate the fuel pump I'd do it. If not I won't lose any sleep over just starting it and going for a ride. Thanks for all the opinions :).
 
I've garaged this bike from new, in a garage attached to my house. Never started it over winter. It hasn't had condensation on it, or in the sight glass for the oil. My previous bike was kept in a wooden shed, that bike used to regularly get soaked in condensation over winter. I'm not really over thinking this, if it's a 5 minute job to isolate the fuel pump I'd do it. If not I won't lose any sleep over just starting it and going for a ride. Thanks for all the opinions :).

Indeed - it's a fine discussion point - but I can't see a quick and easy way.
 
I always change the oil before I lay it up for winter so it is clean oil coating the internals, not oil contaminated with the nasty products of combustion I also fill the tank with fuel . When it comes to starting up for the spring It's a crank over and away holding the rpm at 2-3k for a minute or 2
 
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