Suspension 2018

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masho46

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Guys I have picked up my2018 rr and I want to soften the suspension up for the run in period it?s too harsh out the crate.Someone posted a graph on here a while ago with ddc Rebound and comp settings for a start off point but I can?t find it after searching for settings on here.Any help gratefully received.
 
What mode are you using for the running in period and how much do you weigh?

I would first make sure you?re in Sport Mode and then if you go into setup menu > setup DDC you can adjust the compression and rebound damping (-7 to +7) to your liking at the rear, or the combined ?dmp? at the front.

Out of the box, preload is fully wound out at both ends, so depending on your weight you may require lighter springs. Always remember to recalibrate the DDC after making preload changes.

If you?re not a fan of the throttle response in Sport mode, when you get access to User Mode you can customise everything.

Hope this helps?
 
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Hi Oli I’m 12st 10 so around the 80kg weight.I will be riding in sport mode for run in period and you lost me when you said recalibrate ddc if I change pre load as you can tell not had much experience in set up on these bikes yet.
 
DDC Suspension

Before you make any adjustments to the DDC suspension you must set front and rear preload and then recalibrate it. You will find instructions on how to do this in the Owner's Manual. Once you have done this any adjustments that you make to the front or rear suspension via the dash will make a noticeable difference.

'0' is the factory default setting and adjustments can be made from -7 (Soft) to +7 (Hard). The DDC system parameters are different in each Riding Mode. In 'Rain' and 'Sport' modes DDC response overall is much softer; whilst in 'Race' mode the system responds more dynamically. In 'Slick' mode DDC is much harder and designed for race track use. Any adjustments that you make will only apply to the Riding Mode that you have selected and given that the DDC algorithms are different in each mode the bike will respond differently to the changes you make.

Importantly, you need to find what works for you and not rely on settings recommended by others as there are just far to many variables affecting setup that will differ greatly between riders. Ultimately, once you have set preload you just need to get out on the bike and experiment.
 
In order to recalibrate the DDC, you must have the bike on either the side stand or paddock stands, then if you cycle through the DDC setup menu you?ll see an option called ?CALIB?. Select this and leave the bike alone whilst it does its thing and it?ll then notify you when it?s successfully completed (usually takes a few seconds or so).
The purpose of this calibration is to allow the system to know where level is, as following a preload change you are altering the ride height.
One other important thing to note re preload is that you must have the ignition on before making any changes.
You?ll notice the bike is as stiff as a board until you turn the ignition on.

+1 on what Ryan says though re first port of call being set the ride height (preload) and go from there
 
At 12st you are 'light' for the default spring rates of the RR.

Softening the damping will help but I think you'll want to replace your front and rear springs with softer items in the long run.
 
Good question, Masho. Some very interesting advice there guys.
I'm 15-and-a-half stone (which is obviously why I'm so sow on track, lol.
Seriously though, I spend my life in sports mode, popping onto rain and race only very occasionally. Should I tinker along the above lines?
-
Also, on my last bike, I raised the tail up for more leg room (it had an impact on turning in, can't remember if it was quicker or slower)
Is it realistic to raise my tail up a bit for just a few more mm? I spend 99% on the road so I'd just re-learn track riding or re-tweak.
-
Hope you don't mind me piling into your thread, Masho.
 
I'm about the same weight, and know nothing about where to start setting suspension up.
I went to ERS at knockhill for him to set it up, and he said he thought the springs were slightly to stiff for optimal set up to use on the road.

Before getting it set up, i wasn't overly comfy riding the bike in sport, but race felt bang on. He tweeked the setting in sport mode, and now I don't really use anything but sport, as it feels so confidence inspiring to what it did feel like. It was only very slight changes he made, but made a huge overall difference to the feel of the bike.
 
Geometry

Is it realistic to raise my tail up a bit for just a few more mm? I spend 99% on the road so I'd just re-learn track riding or re-tweak.

The 2015+ model is particularly sensitive to wheelbase and geometry changes and its never just a simple case of 'lowering or raising'.
 
Geometry / Ride Height

Just remember the following if your making any changes to ride height. The main reason to change a bike's ride height is to alter the steering geometry of the bike to either help it to turn more quickly or become more stable. An decrease in ride height quickens the steering, but makes the bike less stable and reduces rear grip under power. More ride height slows the steering, but makes the bike more stable and increases rear grip under power.

Geometry changes can be positive if you know the effect that you want to achieve and understand what the bike is preventing you from doing. However changing the ride height can result in the following symptoms.

Too little ride height will give:
High-speed instability.
Poor rear grip
Instability under heavy braking.

Too much ride height will give you:
Understeer on corner exit.
Difficulty in changing direction.
poor front end grip on exit.
 
Good question, Masho. Some very interesting advice there guys.
I'm 15-and-a-half stone (which is obviously why I'm so sow on track, lol.
Seriously though, I spend my life in sports mode, popping onto rain and race only very occasionally. Should I tinker along the above lines?
-
Also, on my last bike, I raised the tail up for more leg room (it had an impact on turning in, can't remember if it was quicker or slower)
Is it realistic to raise my tail up a bit for just a few more mm? I spend 99% on the road so I'd just re-learn track riding or re-tweak.
-
Hope you don't mind me piling into your thread, Masho.

Raising the rear will make turning sharper. However as ryan eluded to, messing with the cog can have detrimental effects on handling, Everyone I have met who rides an rr competitively or works on suspension for a living has said the rr handles best when as flat as possible.
 
Geometry

...the rr handles best when as flat as possible.

+1.

The S1000RR generally prefers a flat geometry and a longer wheelbase. This is especially so on track and is why you see so many BMW teams struggling with setup as this bike is so sensitive to even minor geometry changes.
 
Thanks Ryan and Andy, very interesting. From what I've read over recent months, you guys seem to know loads and do loads of adjustments for track riding.
My approach is quite different. On my last bike (an RC8R) the dealer adjusted it to maximise my comfort for day to day use and I then learnt to ride that set up on track.
When I go on track I change nothing, not even the tyre pressure, let alone suspension, etc.
I'm hoping to do the same on the BMW, as despite the rearsets (embarrassingly installed by others) and comfort seat my knees are still a little sore after a 300 mile day. If I can get just a few mm extra legroom, I'd like to do it.
My problem is, where do I start? (assuming it's even possible).
 
@Huge you really need to adjust tyre pressures for track use, it?s not safe to run road pressures on track.

Re ergonomics, the trouble with lowering the rearsets excessively is you loose ground clearance, which on a fixed peg is certainly something to be aware of.
Have you tried moving the rearsets back a bit, i.e experimented with their position so as to find a stable base for you?

Re suspension, one of the great things about the DDC suspension is that it?s so quick to make basic changes to suit your riding, i.e. road vs track.
I would recommend visiting a suspension specialist who can setup a good base setting for you for road and track use.
I think you?d not only enjoy your track days that much more, but there is also a legitimate safety argument that can be made too.

Best of luck with the ergo/suspension experimentation [emoji4]
 
Suspension Setup

Having your suspension setup initially does nothing more than provide you with a base setting from which to work from and that?s it. Nothing more, nothing less. Suspension setup is an evolving process and it changes the faster you go as the suspension will behave differently as your pace increases as you are generating load in different ways. By not changing it you are simply riding around problems that could easily be addressed by a few subtle (electronic) clicks of the suspension. Suspension setup really isn?t all that difficult once you have a basic grasp of the concepts of compression, rebound and preload. It doesn?t matter whether you are a track or road rider, adjusting the suspension will pay dividends to your riding. The beauty of the DDC system is that it makes making changes unbelievably quick and easy as you do not have to worry about counting ?clicks? and such like.

The same goes for tyre pressures. Road pressures do not work on track and you will simply not get the best from a tyre or achieve good wear. It?s also rather unsafe. Applying the correct pressures for the conditions, tyre brand and type may mean the difference between you getting around a corner on track... or not. The majority of crashes that I see when instructing on trackdays are normally caused by the following and are in no particular order:

Ambition vs talent (or lack thereof / rider error).
Incorrect tyre pressures.
Cold tyres.
Poor suspension setup.

To few people bother making changes to their suspension which is such a shame. By doing so you will get so much more from your bike and it will make your riding that much easier, efficient and ultimately safer.
 
Thanks Ryan and Andy, very interesting. From what I've read over recent months, you guys seem to know loads and do loads of adjustments for track riding.
My approach is quite different. On my last bike (an RC8R) the dealer adjusted it to maximise my comfort for day to day use and I then learnt to ride that set up on track.
When I go on track I change nothing, not even the tyre pressure, let alone suspension, etc.
I'm hoping to do the same on the BMW, as despite the rearsets (embarrassingly installed by others) and comfort seat my knees are still a little sore after a 300 mile day. If I can get just a few mm extra legroom, I'd like to do it.
My problem is, where do I start? (assuming it's even possible).
This will no doubt be a good convo subject up in Scotland.

Re Knee soreness: I've seen people mount forward pegs to use on long runs, for a bit of a break. You're a tall lad so there's only so much that can be done on a Superbike...those distances are adventure bike territory. 300Miles is a long way!


- Alex
 
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