Recent content by skapan

The location of the ABS sensor on the HP4 Race makes the decision easier for me. The Lightec (or other) pin stand in the bottom of the fork is easy to use and no fear of doing damage that could occur with the typical fork end PitBull or others. On and off stand 10 times or more at a typical...

When I do a lookup on the latest service DVD there are still a lot of bikes that they recommend the use of 7.5W fork oil. The only one I've found that wants 11.5 is the XR. The 7.5 Motul full synthetic works a treat in my '16 with DDC, and my wife's '14 R with DDC. Sorry can't help with the...

If you read the spec sheets for all the different Motul oils, you'll see that they make no recommendation as to change intervals for the 300V. That's because it's meant for track bikes, and should be changed every 500 km or so. If you go longer you'll notice that the engine starts to get noisy...

If there's too much play in the clutch cable that could affect the quickshifter, but just changing the rearsets seems to be the cause in this case? Have you checked the clutch switch just be sure?

If you absolutely find the red stripe hideous, you can always add a black stripe on top of it....Did that for a friend and it worked out great.

Hi Daz - The focus is definitely about learning, I've also heard that students will be told to leave if they are not attentive during the class sessions, or if the coaches cannot get through to them on the concepts being discussed. Definitely they are VERY watchful at the start of the day, and...

I've completed all 4 levels of CSS, and as they tell you, riding at 70% is where you can learn (or unlearn if that's the case) technique. Any more commitment than that can cause fear to come up and restrict your ability to change and to cement the change during the day. Having said that...

From what I know there were some changes from the 2010-11 model to the 2012 and newer, so it's not a big surprise that there are some fitment issues. Especially when going back and forth from road fairings you would be reluctant to make a lot of changes to accomodate the race stuff. This is...

I have 2 spares sitting in my basement, one was $20 the other was free. Too bad there is some distance involved here.

Really the only way to achieve what you are looking for is to cut the cat off, gut it and weld it back together. Alternatively you could cut off the section with the flapper valve and weld it into whatever new system you get. Check with Austin Racing, but I don't think any of their systems will...

Disconnect the cable to the servo and safety wire the flapper open. Or get another stock front header and replace it (cheap on fleabay or local).

Well, the S1R is about 70 pounds lighter. Pushing it around the garage is easier, and riding low speeds in town requires less effort. On the highway, the K13R is much more comfortable and stable. Acceleration and fuel economy are roughly the same on both, although the longer wheelbase on the...

Hi Soofsayer, yes your name sounds familiar! As for bikes, I have a 2011 S1000RR for track duty, an S1000R for street as well as a K1300R for when I get bored with the other two. Southern Ontario is all about looooong straights where you can wait for an hour to get to a turn. But there are a...

Not really a simple task to core out the cat on this bike, as it's welded inside the "breadbox". As far as noise is concerned, I've seen riders put a straight pipe on the cat exit and it's not loud at all. Then it stands to reason that any slip on will not really change the noise level. If you...

I would just try an industrial bearing supplier, take the old ones with you. If you need the actual bearing numbers rather than the BMW numbers pm me as I kept the set I knocked out just in case. You can also go aftermarket with someone like "All Balls Racing" to get a kit with the seals and...