Another Ride, Fork Height Query

I know this is an old subject but i cant seem to sift through previous posts, on here and US sites, and get a proper feel for the right way to go, apology done!

I'm trying to suss out if dropping the forks, tops flush with top yoke, is the right way to go?

and if so:

What eccentric adjuster do I use for the rear?

I see conventional wisdom is out the window with HP4 and they need raising at front and dropping at the rear. I have the 2D front sensor fitted although didn't try it out last year. Still running standard springs, oil, air gap etc.

Anyway any help anyone can offer is welcome as I want to set up ready for this years track season early.

Thanks very much.

Geometry

http://s1000rrforum.co.uk/showthread.php?9098-Top-Yoke-Nut-amp-Fork-Leg-Adjustment

Gen 3? Generally, raising the front gives more traction at the rear, dropping the front makes it turn better. Was advised by a bmw race team that the eccentric washer (top of rear shock mount) is already set at it's optimum. Of course, as with all adjustments it's individual according to how you ride and pace.... I use a suspension expert, in my case HM racing to initially set up my bike and then tweak from there.

From memory the eccentric top shock mount gives 2.5mm extra shock length, that will be difficult to equate to anything when not trying back to back options.
Not to be confused with anything to do with preload, look at it as +/- ride height, bare in mind this will adjust front end geometry and may need to be ironed out with pulling the forks through the yokes.

I would suggest logging all of your settings front and rear buy counting clicks.
Preload by from fully out to in, so count the complete turns anti clockwise on both legs which should be equal. Then comp and rebound is counted from fully seated, clockwise back out.
I think each turn off preload equates to 1mm front and 0.5 rear buy don't quote me as I'm not clued up on the standard stuff.
Then set your sags, then set compression and rebound around the middle mark, then just try stuff. If it's horrible, you have logged where you were initially and can just turn back to there if needed.
Hope that makes sense.

paul_m said:

I would suggest logging all of your settings front and rear buy counting clicks.
Preload by from fully out to in, so count the complete turns anti clockwise on both legs which should be equal. Then comp and rebound is counted from fully seated, clockwise back out.
I think each turn off preload equates to 1mm front and 0.5 rear buy don't quote me as I'm not clued up on the standard stuff.
Then set your sags, then set compression and rebound around the middle mark, then just try stuff. If it's horrible, you have logged where you were initially and can just turn back to there if needed.
Hope that makes sense.

Click to expand...

DDC on the HP4 so only preload to tinker with in the traditional sense, all over setting up standard suspension and what geometry changes affect etc. What I was really after is if anyone had tried the raising of front ride height and dropping of rear with the eccentrics as this defies conventional wisdon that I'd apply to standard suspension on other bikes. Think making the bike more like a chopper than standing it on its nose!

I'll keep plugging away and see what I can find out to test this year.

Thanks.

Ours has but we're on full KTech so wouldn't equate to anything you guys have on the standard kit.
Just do it and see. It can always go back.
Be careful with the right hand side cam.
It's a sod to get in square, and it falls out and goes missing in some Random places