HP ECU, is it worth the money?

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- The HP ECU is the same for 2010-11-12.
The installed software is not customizable on its on own. It is especially developped for complete race exhaust (pipe + muffler) what ever the brand (optimized to Akra and Arrow).
Once installed, the O2 sensors can be removed (auto tune does not work)
In term of power and torque, the differences with the stock one is a torque bigger sooner and a little bit bigger at the same high rpm. In term of power the gain is very small at the max rpm.
In term of ABS/DTC, the 4 modes get the same power. The diffrence is in the power delivery way through ride by wire differential settings.
In term of ABS, the ABS is less intrusive and in slicl mode, the front and rear brakes are not conencted.
In term of DTC, the DTC is less intrusive especially in slick mode (the race mode is about the one used in stock slick mode) : the DTC intervenes later (allow more lean before intervening, the sliding ratio wheel/ground speeds is a little bit higher).

- The calibration kit (softawre + connect wiring to PC) required the HP race ECU.
It allows to setup many things : injection, ignition (useful to use race gazoline), DTC, ABS, launching start, pit lane speed.....
It is a very hight btecj device but to get better setup than only HP ECU, you need time to make testing (days, and days) and a data system analysis is better to do it.
 
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The HP ECU does the exact same thing on the 2010 that it would do to an 11/12/13. It's a new ECU, so all of the bikes will behave the same way.


With the HP ECU, ABS in SPORT, RACE, and SLICK mode all match the ABS settings from the factory configured SLICK mode. RAIN mode ABS settings match the RACE mode of the original config. According to Alpha Racing, DTC "varies in all 4 modes and is adapted to the use of slick tires on race tracks" which means that it offers progressively more aggressive throttle input at greater lean angles and is more subtle and transparent in its implementation when using race rubber.


No, it's not worth the price by itself, but it was meant to be sold with the calibration kit and more expressly with their exhaust. It would be comical to use the HP ECU with the factory shortie exhaust.


Either way, the HP ECU would still help with the "basic problem of the crude DTC" because as-is with the standard HP ECU map it's optimized to BMW's best effort using their "race data set", so even with the factory map in the HP ECU, the DTC/ABS is improved over a stock 2010/11 and even improved over a 12/13/HP4 if your definition of improvement means being more transparent, but at what point on the track would it be better to just cut them off anyway? Beyond that though, with the calibration software the ECU is completely user customizable and that's really the whole point of it.


Frankly, it would really not be worth the money if you are not interested in more ponies, but especially torque as thats where the majority of the changes lie. If you really want the better DTC/ABS then you are better off just buying a 12/13. If you really are interested in better calibrated electronic aids for track use, then the HP ECU is perfect because again it's user customizable w/ the calibration kit.




They have been that kind. They made the HP4. Your wish has already been granted, you just have to pay for the whole bike. You can get improved throttle response a couple of different ways, A. Get a PCV, B. Get the street legal full Akropovic with the updated ECU codes, or C. Buy a 12/13/HP4.


Almost, but not quite, especially with the 10/11s. It's geared a little high for the streets, so a sprocket change is welcome, and the throttle respose is jerky in RACE and especially SLICK so a PCV is needed to smooth this out as best it can. Not to mention the "crude" DTC is very rude with the power while trying to do wheelies with the electronics on, of course while traveling on "closed public roads."


Then the the HP ECU would be too much wasted potential and money for a bike with street duty as its primary mission. Especially if you don't want to purchase the calibration kit, and especially considering the caveats with the HP ECU, such as loss of RAIN/SPORT modes, and loss of your warranty....for what you want, you may be better off buying an HP4-you get the best of the HP ECU while maintaining the street settings of the 12/13 ECU.


EDIT *apparently, BMW has reversed course with initial guidance and allowed functioning lamps with the RACE ECU*
 
Depends if you think you'll make use of all the additional tuning options....TBH I think you'd be better off pocketing the cash and just slapping on a PCV/Pipe. :)
 
Thank you for the answers. I already have the PCV and a full Leo Vince system. I got drawn into a conversation about getting the HP ECU as they said I needed it for the track! TBH the bike is more capable than I am, so I'm probably going to leave it as it is. I will probably spend the time and money on suspension (That's where it's always served me best in the past!).
 
Thank you for the answers. I already have the PCV and a full Leo Vince system. I got drawn into a conversation about getting the HP ECU as they said I needed it for the track! TBH the bike is more capable than I am, so I'm probably going to leave it as it is. I will probably spend the time and money on suspension (That's where it's always served me best in the past!).

HP Supensions will go much better with a good oil and a good race kit inside!
The PCV is not comparable to HP... The HP ECU gives you tons of power, specially in middles, but it has also a better DTC algorythm and less engine brake, which makes driving in track much better. With the calibration kit you can also change all parameters of engine maps and DTC, included tyres diameter, which is absolutely necessary for a safe riding in track when using others tyres trades or measures.
You can buy a genuine HP in BMW or look for a reflash, it is cheaper and works as the HP ecu.
 
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