Track bike/model year spec question??

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Burner

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Hi all


Got a couple of points I could do with some help clarifying.......
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[li]do 10 and 11 MY bikes share the same spec ignoring colour scheme?[/li]
[li]do the tweeks made to the 12/13 MY bikes really make it that much better.......?[/li]
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Regarding 2 I've read the stuff in the press saying it's moved the game along again, but I've always taken magazine reviews with a large pinch of salt. Anyone here got any views or experience of both?


Plan is to build a track bike this year, so the options are a cheaper used 10/11 bike, leaving more cash for go-faster bits, or get a new one if it really is that much better. I'd probably take a test ride on this years bike when it's not freezing/snowing, but until then.....


Cheers


Andy
 
Mid range is night and day in my opinion. The new bike has better geometry for track riding and corners much better. It's definately better. Whether its worth you going for it the best thing would be ride the two back to back.

I have a 2012 package for sale with some extra kit I'm guessing would be perfect for a trackbike.
 
2012 is a much better bike the engine maps are much better with the larger air intake and the handling is also better test rode them back to back and bought a new one
 
Midrang/map differences are not important on a track bike as most people would be fitting a system with a remap/power commander.
The traction control settings are supposed to be better on the 2012 and as said there are some geometry changes, I think the steering damper was improved as well?

I have heard that between the 10/11 BMW fitted a heavier crank to the 11 model as well as changes to the gearbox and cam's?
I have an 11 plate from new i was not happy with any of the suspension but with an Ohlins damper/shock and fork internals it feels much better.
 
Thanks.


Heavier crank.... do you know the reasoning behind this change? Reliability or performance..... based on my understanding I'm thinking the former?


I'll take a test ride but trying to assess track ability on cold January roads, and IMHO on public roads at all regardless of weather, will be pretty meaningless apart from probably giving me a large grin. I do like the idea of the improved traction control tho', anything that makes me feel like I'm a better rider without appearing to interfere with me 'being in charge' wins in my book.


Cheers
 
I also would get a 2011 and buy decent suspension if on a budget
Geared the same it's a negligible difference IMHO
 
Afaik the heavier crank was fitted to try and reduce the vibrations which people complained about on the 2010 model. The lighter cranks rev a little faster, but I doubt most people would notice the change.

Interesting question on the geometry, you could always fit adjustable triple clamps if you wanted to tweak it. My 2010 frame comes in with a 23 degree angle, so it could be the yokes are what put it to 24 degrees as mentioned by the specs.
 
The heavier crank was used from June 2010 and has remained to this day.
I believe the main reason was for the Superbikes.It improved corner entry/exit.
So,unless buying an early 2010 then all the rest are the same.The early bike was definitely more spirited!
As for which to buy,'12 is much better,but you won't go wrong with any of them.

The '12 gains its midrange from the new exhaust system so fitting a full system equals it out
The '12 bike is much lighter steering and turn-in is better but similar results can be obtained on the '11 by flipping the rear shock mount.


The swingarm pivot is moved but alpha racing, etc. do different mounts for earlier bikes.


The DTC is supposed to be improved but,having not ridden mine in the dry yet,I cannot comment.I know Rain mode is too intrusive in the wet.Sport is better.


One bonus of the '12 bike is the glorious intake roar(gsxr!)due to the larger intake.
[size=78%] [/size]
 
10/11 bikes are the same the 12/13 bikes have bigger rear sprocket so they got abit more go apart from that they produce the same bhp,the 12/13 bikes suspension is better than the 10/11 bikes as for geometry changes on earlier bikes just take a link out of chan to shorten wheel base and tweak rear shock by flipping the upside down
 
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