Newbie wanting advise

Hi you lot my new bike should be with me next week 2012 BMW S1000RR..what do I need to know about the best mods and things to look out for?

I'd say get an exhaust for the bike, full system would be te best for power gains. If fitting a full system you'll need a power commander V to go with it.

Get the suspension set up by someone who knows what they are doing.

Book a track day.

The track day will come but I'm coming from an RSV factory that I loved and I wondered with the extra power already on tap if I might be better looking at the wheels or at least making the bike turn quicker. what is the best system to put on when I need the bike for the road too?

Wheels, ohlins internals and rear shock. Massive improvement over stock, the exhaust was the last thing I done to mine, the bike is hardly slow but the difference in ride quality and handling is superb. I done a back to back with my tuned 2011 and a stock 2012 and the difference was massive. I have bst carbon wheels but there is plenty of forged stuff to look out for too, at the very least get it sprung to weight if you can't stretch to the ohlins.

BIKERFRENZY link=topic=1818.msg16323#msg16323 date=1353534625 said:

at least making the bike turn quicker.

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You can flip the oval shaped washer at the top of the shock (where the shock is bolted onto frame), have not done this myself (yet) but is a cheap quick mod to help the bike turn quicker...

I agree with Marcus, its all about handling. Forget about the exhaust and PCV the bikes fast enough and unless your a proper racer its unlikely you'll be able to exploit the extra 5-7bhp.

Get the sag sorted for your weight, lightweight wheels, front fork internals. in that order.
According to Dave Moss (Suspension guru) the rear shock is ok, its the front end that lets the bike down.

welcome aboard , the wheels do make a big difference IMHO
An important point for the exhaust is its not just the power , you'll be gutted when you feel the weight of a standard full system , its very heavy.

where will I get BST wheels at a decent price? I might have to sell one of the kids ;D

I made a thread of best mods to do go take a look at it,most tried and tested by myself and forum members,but heres a few,puig screen,pcv race filter austin racing inconell system,get suspension set up for your weight,decent rear sets and D3 components tail tidy and watsen design flush mount indicators,gb engine covers and top quality crash protectors and full belly pan and rad and oil cooler gaurds .

fatbob link=topic=1818.msg16335#msg16335 date=1353585285 said:

welcome aboard , the wheels do make a big difference IMHO
An important point for the exhaust is its not just the power , you'll be gutted when you feel the weight of a standard full system , its very heavy.

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The standard system inc cat is around 12-13 kg.

fitting a full system and PCV isn't all about power increase. It about making the bike more efficient. Cleaner burn, BETTER power delivery, smooth throttle response. These bikes are set up from the factory to meet emission laws, the engines are massively held back. They need to be unleashed.

Light weight wheels ar useless if your still carrying around the stock exhaust system. To be honest if your after wheels the carbon ones are the ones to go for. Only because the standard ones are pretty light in the first place, the weight loss from buying forged after market wheels over stock is minimum. However, using Carbon Wheels on the roads is a bit risky as the wheels can crack if hit hard (pot holes etc).

Ditch the cat and standard system. The key to a faster turn in is Low unsprung weight.

If your mainly road riding, I can't really see the benefit in purchasing ohlins internals or a rear shock. The stock suff is perfectly good for road riding IF is set up well.

Th main thing to do is get out and ride it.

FYI unsprung weight is weight below the springs ie wheels, swingarm, callipers, discs and pads etc.

Lower unsprung weight allows the suspension to work easier by having less mass to move so it can respond quicker to the conditions. Lighter wheels have less rotating mass meaning less centrifugal force making the bike easier to turn, especially at speed.

Exhausts are sprung weight as is the engine, frame, rider etc.

If your racing you'll notice the difference from the 8kg saving in the exhaust but personally I felt massive difference on the wheels and little on the exhaust and if you saw my before and after dyno sheets these engines are phenomenal in stock form and in no way would I say held back.

I set mine up very well by flipping the spacer, adjusting the fork protrusion and setting the sags and clickers but the bike came into its own with the wheels and ohlins, I've just fitted 28mm triples which has again improved it but if you've got a 2012 you won't need to worry about that

Marcus81 link=topic=1818.msg16358#msg16358 date=1353609897 said:

centrifugal force

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No such thing.

Don't you mean less inertia?

Insurance might be a problem..£900 so far

Marcus81 link=topic=1818.msg16358#msg16358 date=1353609897 said:

FYI unsprung weight is weight below the springs ie wheels, swingarm, callipers, discs and pads etc.

Lower unsprung weight allows the suspension to work easier by having less mass to move so it can respond quicker to the conditions. Lighter wheels have less rotating mass meaning less centrifugal force making the bike easier to turn, especially at speed.

Exhausts are sprung weight as is the engine, frame, rider etc.

If your racing you'll notice the difference from the 8kg saving in the exhaust but personally I felt massive difference on the wheels and little on the exhaust and if you saw my before and after dyno sheets these engines are phenomenal in stock form and in no way would I say held back.

I set mine up very well by flipping the spacer, adjusting the fork protrusion and setting the sags and clickers but the bike came into its own with the wheels and ohlins, I've just fitted 28mm triples which has again improved it but if you've got a 2012 you won't need to worry about that

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Do you race ? Or are you a road rider Marcus ?

Road and track days, not quick enough to race but have fun trying

What I mean on the wheels is if you held a bicycle wheel by its spindle and rotated it across its axis ie leaning on a bike, it is easy if the wheel is not turning, if you spin it then it becomes harder to turn, if you made it heavier and turned it at the same speed it would be harder still.

That's why it's easier to turn a motorcycle with lighter wheels as the forces acting are reduced

BIKERFRENZY link=topic=1818.msg16360#msg16360 date=1353612515 said:

Insurance might be a problem..£900 so far

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That's not too bad if I'm honest. The cheapest I was quoted was 1.5k. The most expensive 9.5k....

I don't ride on the road so I'm not too worried ;-)

Marcus81 link=topic=1818.msg16368#msg16368 date=1353617141 said:

Road and track days, not quick enough to race but have fun trying

What I mean on the wheels is if you held a bicycle wheel by its spindle and rotated it across its axis ie leaning on a bike, it is easy if the wheel is not turning, if you spin it then it becomes harder to turn, if you made it heavier and turned it at the same speed it would be harder still.

That's why it's easier to turn a motorcycle with lighter wheels as the forces acting are reduced

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Really? Lol I'm sure Russ knows about gyroscopes,any person who rides a motorcycle knows this

Marcus81 link=topic=1818.msg16368#msg16368 date=1353617141 said:

Road and track days, not quick enough to race but have fun trying

What I mean on the wheels is if you held a bicycle wheel by its spindle and rotated it across its axis ie leaning on a bike, it is easy if the wheel is not turning, if you spin it then it becomes harder to turn, if you made it heavier and turned it at the same speed it would be harder still.

That's why it's easier to turn a motorcycle with lighter wheels as the forces acting are reduced

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I understand this to be the gyroscopic effect, I had OZ wheels on my 04 rsv factory and it was lush

Gyroscopic effect, those were the words that I'd lost

I was only offering some sort of explanation behind what I was suggesting, in my opinion there's nothing worse than people just shouting there favourite mods and products with no reasoning behind there suggestion.

Until I bought the s1k I'd never played with lightweight wheels and found the difference bloody amazing, it's one of those mods that many people overlook because of the initial outlay my self included on my two previous bikes. Admittedly i was a bit more skint when I had my cbr and gsxr and now it's the s1k that makes me skint!

insurance down to £520 so far