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zedhead

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Hello Gang,I took the RR for it's first spin today.So easy to ride,clutch a bit grabby.Is this normal?Also the shift light came on around 7-8k,I know it is restricted until the first service but does this stop it revving past a certain RPM.Can anyone enlighten me on the running in procedure.Thanks for all your help.Zed.
 
The Shift light will come on at those revs and the bike will not rev any higher during running in.
At 600 miles the first service the restrictor will be removed but the shift light still at the same setting so you will have to change it.

the bike will then be able to achieve warp speed
 
Boardsofnorfolk link=topic=1481.msg14068#msg14068 date=1348951504 said:
125mph top speed and no more than 9k rpm,after that time travel is possible!
Click to expand...
And if the Old Bill catch you even at this restricted speed say hello to my daughter ??? (She's a Prison Officer ) LOL
 
Parley Waller link=topic=1481.msg14069#msg14069 date=1348951924 said:
Boardsofnorfolk link=topic=1481.msg14068#msg14068 date=1348951504 said:
125mph top speed and no more than 9k rpm,after that time travel is possible!
Click to expand...
And if the Old Bill catch you even at this restricted speed say hello to my daughter ??? (She's a Prison Officer ) LOL
Click to expand...

;D could be worth it ! Joke......... Might be good for some extra smokes ;)
 
My opinion,

Brand new bike break in=

Start let it warm through up to temp then ride hard as hell for 30 miles then dump the oil as full of crap.

with fresh oil ride it hard as hell through hills or the track is best up to first service. the harder you ride it the better the rings will seal and will result in better compression thus you will have a stronger more powerfull engine. seriously punish it to redline as much as you can.
 
when you go in for the first service any dealership worth their salt will change the rev limit that the light comes on mate.
 
Damo link=topic=1481.msg14079#msg14079 date=1348962440 said:
My opinion,

Brand new bike break in=

Start let it warm through up to temp then ride hard as hell for 30 miles then dump the oil as full of crap.

with fresh oil ride it hard as hell through hills or the track is best up to first service. the harder you ride it the better the rings will seal and will result in better compression thus you will have a stronger more powerfull engine. seriously punish it to redline as much as you can.
Click to expand...

9,000 rpm limit up to 600mls. 9000 divided by 60 equals 150 times PER SECOND that the piston goes up AND down. After 600mls the devil is released, red line 14000rpm, divided by 60 equals 233 times PER SECOND the piston travels up AND down. Take some time for this to sink in..........
Correct me if i'm wrong but engines were going bang at first when race teams were thrashing the nuts off them? You may well be right but i havnt heard of any s1k breaking because of a ring problem its usually a rod waving goodbye.
 
fatbob link=topic=1481.msg14077#msg14077 date=1348955633 said:
Isn't the light for the quick shifter ?
Click to expand...
Nope, its just there to let you know when its best to change gear. It can be set to what ever revs you want. It can be annoying ;D
 
Damo link=topic=1481.msg14079#msg14079 date=1348962440 said:
My opinion,

Brand new bike break in=

Start let it warm through up to temp then ride hard as hell for 30 miles then dump the oil as full of crap.

with fresh oil ride it hard as hell through hills or the track is best up to first service. the harder you ride it the better the rings will seal and will result in better compression thus you will have a stronger more powerfull engine. seriously punish it to redline as much as you can.
Click to expand...

Perfect for race engines that will be cracked open and refreshed fairly often, pointless for a road bike. The reason race teams do that is it is proved to help get the max power out of the engine. Anyone using that excuse for a road bike needs their head read. Most average riders wouldn't notice a 15 bhp difference, let alone a 2-3 bhp difference.

Also, as BMW impose the 9000 rpm ECU limitation from the factory that isn't removed until the first service how do you propose to run in a road S1R using your method without invalidating your warranty?

We're lucky to have a limiter. The new M3 doesn't have one but anyone revving past the factory's suggested running in limit void their engine warranties. The cars ECU stores max rev information for the dealer's workshops to discover.
 
Oh and most slipper clutches can be described as "grabby" especially when they are new. Nature of the beast.
 
Extremely interesting reading godz and i put into favourites :) but i wouldnt want to argue that with warrentee IF it went tits up, especially on the oil subject :eek: I dont understand how manufacturers spend millions upon millions designing and testing and 'WE' know better. I dont (as i suspect most of us dont) have the knowledge to argue apart from what i/we read. :-\ I have 12000mls 194 at the wheel with arcs pcv, run in as per book with double the specified oil changes and have no problems (yet). When i paid a lot of money for it i wasnt prepared to challenge the system.
 
Must admit ran mine in exactly to the book and bike is in dealers with oil in cylinders 1 and 2 an awaiting instructions from BMW as to repair or replace. Only just year old with 7000 miles on clock
 
Our bikes didnt come with fully synthetic oil in, supporting in a way what motoman says about oil. Changing it early can never harm the engine.

Red, run it in properly next time, not like the manual. What you have experienced adds more support to that article.
 
reddevil007 link=topic=1481.msg14181#msg14181 date=1349116266 said:
Must admit ran mine in exactly to the book and bike is in dealers with oil in cylinders 1 and 2 an awaiting instructions from BMW as to repair or replace. Only just year old with 7000 miles on clock
Click to expand...

But at least they are doing something about it. If you didn't run it in as per the book they could tell you to do one (if they could prove it).

Mine was ridden at all revs up to the limiter and never at load.
 
My old 2010 bike was run in for 600 miles hitting the limiter regular until it was removed,with 1200 odd miles on it it showed 191bhp @ rear wheel on dynojets mobile rolling road,a bike with more miles and i beleive was run in like mine made 0.5 more on the same roller on same day,im a fan of running them hard from new not stupid but hitting the 9k limiter in every gear,ive ridden mx bikes for years and my run in method for them is run them for 30 on low revs let them cool down and drop the oil,start them up get them warm then kick the shit out of them,ive done this on 2 stroke and 4 stroke mx bikes....so im in favour of running them to the 9k limiter and hitting the limiter every ride until its removed then kick the shit out of it and hold on ;)
 
MOz link=topic=1481.msg14168#msg14168 date=1349106683 said:
Damo link=topic=1481.msg14079#msg14079 date=1348962440 said:
My opinion,

Brand new bike break in=

Start let it warm through up to temp then ride hard as hell for 30 miles then dump the oil as full of crap.

with fresh oil ride it hard as hell through hills or the track is best up to first service. the harder you ride it the better the rings will seal and will result in better compression thus you will have a stronger more powerfull engine. seriously punish it to redline as much as you can.
Click to expand...

Perfect for race engines that will be cracked open and refreshed fairly often, pointless for a road bike. The reason race teams do that is it is proved to help get the max power out of the engine. Anyone using that excuse for a road bike needs their head read. Most average riders wouldn't notice a 15 bhp difference, let alone a 2-3 bhp difference.

Also, as BMW impose the 9000 rpm ECU limitation from the factory that isn't removed until the first service how do you propose to run in a road S1R using your method without invalidating your warranty?

We're lucky to have a limiter. The new M3 doesn't have one but anyone revving past the factory's suggested running in limit void their engine warranties. The cars ECU stores max rev information for the dealer's workshops to discover.
Click to expand...

Everything i suggested is within the bikes design. I mean take it to the limiter in every gear until the limiter is removed. then to the limiter in all gears till you hit around 1000-1500 miles. the bike is built to do this and infact if you break it in like this the motor will be stronger and last you longer :) A classic example are the 08 and up blades. 50% of those buggers drink oil and the theory is that rings are not sealing well enough by the way the average joe breaks them in. Get a bladee new and break it in hard and you will have no problemo :) This is merely my opinion and i don't expect everyone to agree.
 

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