track set up

Hi all,
been riding a Daytona 675 on track last couple of years and have now decided to try my s1krr on track next year. run in inters so 1st off wondering if I should drop down to novice with the extra power/tech, or stay where I am (booked up for Almeria in March 4 days).
next off, what would you recommend settings to be as a 1st timer on the bike? leave it in race mode for my pace or tinker in user mode/slick. Gonna get SAG set on 1st day (think its PCR doing track support).
after that I'm pretty clueless, being advised by fellas I go with to do this and that but they not bmw owners so would like the best advice off the fellas that ride them.:single_eye:
if I do like the bike on track then I will get fairings and the rest of the track bling over time, with possibly the end can coming 1st. do like the arrow system though :chuncky: forgot to say bike is sport model 15>
thanks in advance
Mut

or is there a thread already set up for this topic that someone could point me to?
cheers
Mut

I don?t think you should drop down to the novice group just because it?s a new bike, I think you?ll find it easier to get acquainted with the bike in the more ?consistent? intermediate group.

Re settings, sag is absolutely the first port of call, though remember to have the ignition on during all measurements and ensure that you recalibrate the DDC suspension after preload adjustments (settings > setup menu > set up DDC > calibrate DDC).
This process is done on the side stand or on paddock stands so long as the front end is loaded.

Race Mode is a good place to start, though I think User Mode is one of the best features on the Gen 3 bikes as it allows you to trailer the throttle response, DDC, ABS and DTC settings independently, allowing you to create a more custom setup.

I had a Daytona 675 R before my Gen 3, and whilst they?re great bikes, I am sure you?ll be blown away by your RR.

Oli

Mutl3y said:

Hi all,
been riding a Daytona 675 on track last couple of years and have now decided to try my s1krr on track next year. run in inters so 1st off wondering if I should drop down to novice with the extra power/tech, or stay where I am (booked up for Almeria in March 4 days).
next off, what would you recommend settings to be as a 1st timer on the bike? leave it in race mode for my pace or tinker in user mode/slick. Gonna get SAG set on 1st day (think its PCR doing track support).
after that I'm pretty clueless, being advised by fellas I go with to do this and that but they not bmw owners so would like the best advice off the fellas that ride them.:single_eye:
if I do like the bike on track then I will get fairings and the rest of the track bling over time, with possibly the end can coming 1st. do like the arrow system though :chuncky: forgot to say bike is sport model 15>
thanks in advance
Mut

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In my view the group you ride in is dictated by your on track riding ability and has very little to do with what bike you're on. If you're comfortable in inters stay there.

MacRR said:

In my view the group you ride in is dictated by your on track riding ability and has very little to do with what bike you're on. If you're comfortable in inters stay there.

Click to expand...

+1

I would not get too concerned about specific suspension settings until you are comfortable with the bike and get to feel what it is doing. The biggest difference will be the power, so i expect you will be braking harder/longer, turning, standing the bike up, and squirting the throttle on the exit, a much different style from riding the 675. I am not familiar with Almeria but my thoughts if it was me, would be to work on sag first (look at your rider sag after a few laps not just the static) and start with a +2 front and rear comp/rebound (firmish) and work up or down from there as you progress over the days. Race mode for a starting point isnt a bad move until you feel more confident to use user and/or slick.

All good points.
The rider makes more difference than the bike...but you've now got an absolute missile for the two straights, so anything you're lacking on the corners you will make up. Almeria are all chrono days where your laptimes are monitored and at lunchtime day 1 you'll be put in a group *your fastest lap* is suitable for. Every morning and lunchtime for the first 2 days they rejig the groups till they settle down. Day 3 and 4 tend to see most settled in the groups they should be in.

I can't judge the situation from my keyboard but maybe these notes will help.
From my own experience at Almeria the RR is tyre sensitive, I found the Dunlop profile worked much better for me, the front wouldn't hook up on Metzelers I ran before, but that could also be related to compound.
The stock springs on the RR are for a 15st rider IMO.
I am fairly sure (read: get it confirmed), there is 8mm of preload when it's fully out on the adjuster. So 2 turns in is 10mm. If you're lighter than 15st leave it at the factory setting of fully out.

I would, in USER mode, run Slick engine, Race ABS, Race DTC, Race DDC. I would then set the front to +2 and rear to +1/+1 (comp/reb).
Stick a zip tie around the forks to check the travel.
After the sighting laps...Hit the brakes hard on the braking at the end of the straight on your first full *flying* lap. Come into the pits at the end of the session and check your zip tie, if it's smashed flat to the bottom of the stroke you'll need to consider adding pre-load. The forks bottom out 8mm above the bottom casting (the ali bracket at the end of the fork). If the TOP of the zip tie is at 8mm then you bottomed out your suspension. Adding preload 2 turns at a time should get you to a point where it stops happening, unless you are too heavy for the springs...test, adjust, refine - don't over-ride. The tape measure gets you a baseline...but the results on track must be reacted to.

But if you change any preload, geometry, weight distribution, you must, must, run the DDC CALIB(ration) before heading out again.

not entirely true. preload isn't the first adjustment you need to make if the forks are bottoming out. Preload could be fine but the compression maybe need adjusting instead to stop the forks travelling to the bottom of their travel.

Alps Pacino said:

not entirely true. preload isn't the first adjustment you need to make if the forks are bottoming out. Preload could be fine but the compression maybe need adjusting instead to stop the forks travelling to the bottom of their travel.

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I think it was the alter ego Mrs Merton (RIP) who said “lets have a heated debate”.

Adding preload is absolutely the right adjustment to make if forks bottom out. Preload determines the travel distance of the fork, compression and rebound determines how the forks move and react within those parameters. You could argue that if you have set your preload just a little low you could use compression damping to stop them bottoming out but its not a great way to go imo because it leaves less options for damping adjustments later.

All good comments...Compared to the 675 :- 1/ don't leave yr breaking as late and 2/ don't be as aggressive on the throttle. You have 4 days to dial it in so don't rush it, no-one will thank you for throwing it down the track lol !
When I 1st took mine on track I turned the tc right up and slowly backed it off according to grip/skill levels.

Have fun !!

I'm not debating but you can have a situation where the forks are really hard on the preload and the compression is way off and the forks will still bottom out. What would you do then?

The issue with the forks bottoming out might not be preload related, that way my point.

http://www.gostar-racing.com/club/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm

Have a look on here. He seems to know what he's talking about.

Alps Pacino said:

I'm not debating but you can have a situation where the forks are really hard on the preload and the compression is way off and the forks will still bottom out. What would you do then?

The issue with the forks bottoming out might not be preload related, that way my point.

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Yep, fork springs are too weak in that situation, no option but to change and reset everything else.


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